This is a head scratcher.

Perhaps the battery went dead, so you tried to jump start it, but did it incorrectly, which fried something in the underhood fuse block.

Then the battery was charged, but of course, it still wouldn't start.

I still don't get why you were welding pop rivets. Those are not something that gets welded. Unless it's some technique I've never heard of. Or it wasn't actually pop rivets...

Anyway, you might open up that fuse block and look for signs of arcing. You could start testing all the fuses too.

I'm just trying to suggest possible causes, not trying to insult.

 

It was me that assumed welding then was corrected pop rivets only. It got confusing, because I never thought fixing rusted frame with anything other than welding.

 

Once again an obvious case of Space Aliens!!!!!!!!

 

Aha! Thanks for clearing that up, I thought I was losing my mind!

 

Finally got it running, never did find the problem. I have been talking to the service tech at the Chevy dealer who is pretty good at figuring stuff out. He has been giving me steps to go through to find the problem most of which I have already done but I kept on doing them without any luck. He had told me years ago about taking the positive and negative cables off the battery and clamp them together for awhile and things will reset. I had already done this a couple time with no luck.
I seen a post on YouTube where a guy said to take the negative cable off the battery and connect it to the positive post of the battery with a jumper cable. This just sounded wrong to me like it would be attaching the negative cable to the positive post with the positive cable still attached to the battery. My only other option was have it towed 30 miles to the dealer so I said what the hell. I let it hooked up that way for about 10 minutes looking for smoke and sparks the whole time. Reattached the negative cable to the battery and everything starting working as normal. So far so good, Thanks to all for their suggestions.

 

Who knew!! When the positive and negative cables touched in my 2007, both were disconnected from the battery, the RAP blew out the radio head unit. Thanks for the follow up.

 

Clamping the pos and neg cable togeather may have worked 25 + years ago. On modern day cars you're asking for trouble trying that method. A simple disconnect of the negative battery terminal will reset most computers on modern cars.
And the Youtube guy shorting across the battery terminals.........idiot. Wonder how many modules he's burned up doing that. Or how many he's caught on fire.

 

Service guy told me to try that years ago on my HHR never hurt anything and this method worked great on it now.

 

All this does is drain the residual power remaining in capacitors to effectively "clear the memory". Leaving the batter disconnected long enough does the same thing. If your router or modem has ever needed a hard reset they suggest leaving it unplugged for a minimum amount of time for the same reason. For whatever reason lots of folks on the forum believe this can harm your car but this is a common practice to clear capacitors in all sorts of electronics. I'll leave this copy from motor trend quoting from GM since the one I posted long ago was from Honda and "doesn't apply to GM""Now, before you start sending me letters telling me that this procedure will cause other problems I will refer you to the GM Tech Link, a monthly publication for the GM Dealership Service Professionals, specifically the Programming Tips section of the August 2005, Volume 7, #08 issue. “Some components contain capacitors, which can store voltage after being turned off. If stored voltage is released by a module while you are programming another module, it could cause confusion on the data bus, causing U codes to set. To prevent this, you may be instructed to disconnect the battery cables and touch them together. This drains the stored voltage from capacitors.”

I use this technique, and it is a very common fix for problems like the ones mentioned at the beginning of this article. Hopefully, this simple solution will allow you to repair unusual problems without pulling your hair out."

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/18...orage-voltage/

Was this the actual fix for this situation? I doubt it since the battery was already taken to Napa to be tested essentially doing a "battery lobotomy" already but I guess we won't really know unless this issue and the solution can be repeated. Glad it's running tho! Thanks for keeping us updated!

 

So an article from 2005. For vehicles made 2006-2011.