Also the car starts right up. No problem starting and running. Just draining the battery as if the alternator isn't working. I'd like to test that fuse as well and the sensor back there but I don't know how without buying a new one. Or can I rule that out if everything powers up?

 

If you can charge the battery, the auto parts store can perform a free battery load test and charging system test.

 

Yeah did that too. Did nothing but have me buy alternator and be where I am now. 2 different stores. Always ummmm I think it's alternator. Unless people doing the tests. Just to tell me um yeah it's not charging so.... it's your alternator

 

By setting your multimeter to ohms; black at one end of a disconnected wire and red on the other; a reading of O-L means "Open Line" i.e. broken wire, any other reading means good. Or, check for voltage on one end of a connected wire then check the other end; both should read the same voltage.
Inspect the small wires in the connector on the alternator, looking for broken wires bad connections etc.

Checking system with multimeter:
Engine off; black to negative red to positive of battery should read more than 12,4 volts.
Engine on, black lead to negative red lead to positive should read around 14 Volts.
Engine off is checking the battery. Engine on is checking alternator.

If those don't pass move to the fuse box and use the strut tower bolts for ground and the LARGE red wire on the fuse box exterior. (engine on and engine off)
if the alternator still fails move the red lead to the large red wire on the starter. (engine on)
if the alternator still fails move the red lead to the large red wire on the alternator, engine on should read around 14,8Volts if not the alternator is defective.

Did I forget anything?

 

Thanks lol. Alternator reads .23. Battery reads 12. Fuse reads 12. Havnt checked starter. Figure if the Alternator isn't reading hardly nothing. It's a bad Alternator again. Or the computer isn't telling it to turn on.

 

There is a part of the wire between the starter and the alternator, that visually looks like it might be a fuseible link. It is not identified as such on any wiring diagrams we have seen. In any case, you may have a bad wire.

 

You use the ohm meter on the VOM multi meter. It might look ok, but they have been known to have a small hair line crack in them and corrosion in the pin sockets

 

I am having the same issue. did you ever figure out what the problem was?
thanks

 

Yes, it was the inline fuse!!
the breakable fuse, from altinator to starter.

 

The in-line fuse , back near the battery? Loose or blown?