No crank problem
#1
No crank problem
Problem found (finally)! Back on the road! (see post #12)
Hello all. I could really use some help and direction; I'm totally fustrated with this problem.
I've followed similar threads but there were no definitive problems identified.
2009 HHR SS, 80K miles. New to me (two weeks)!
Got the truck home and garaged, other projects and it sat for 4 days without being started (everything worked well before sitting)
So, the battery went dead and no start. (Luckily, there was enough juice to pop the rear hatch).I charged the battery for two days and it was reading 13.6 V at the battery. Still wouldn't start.
At this point, I pulled out the old battery (unknown age) and bought a new one. I also cleaned the battery leads, the battery ground connection to the body, and the two large positive connections on the side of the fuse box.Still no crank.
I next removed the top fuse box and cleaned all the contacts and checked all the fuses. No change. Checked the second positive lead at the battery and it was fine. Tried locking and unlocking the door. No change.
So the battery went dead and I replaced it, but something broke.
Summary:
Dash lights up when the key is "on". Everything blacked out when in "start".
Parking lights, headlights, tail lights won't switch on.
Door remotes work
Rear hatch opens
Dome lights work
PDM off or dead
Battery voltage is at the underhood fuse box.
Scanner reads "unable to connect to CAN"
Prior to "no-start", I hadn't touched anything.
Prior to sitting, it started and everything worked.
I appreciate all help and suggestions.
I would hate to flat-bed it to the dealer.
Thanks in advance.
Hello all. I could really use some help and direction; I'm totally fustrated with this problem.
I've followed similar threads but there were no definitive problems identified.
2009 HHR SS, 80K miles. New to me (two weeks)!
Got the truck home and garaged, other projects and it sat for 4 days without being started (everything worked well before sitting)
So, the battery went dead and no start. (Luckily, there was enough juice to pop the rear hatch).I charged the battery for two days and it was reading 13.6 V at the battery. Still wouldn't start.
At this point, I pulled out the old battery (unknown age) and bought a new one. I also cleaned the battery leads, the battery ground connection to the body, and the two large positive connections on the side of the fuse box.Still no crank.
I next removed the top fuse box and cleaned all the contacts and checked all the fuses. No change. Checked the second positive lead at the battery and it was fine. Tried locking and unlocking the door. No change.
So the battery went dead and I replaced it, but something broke.
Summary:
Dash lights up when the key is "on". Everything blacked out when in "start".
Parking lights, headlights, tail lights won't switch on.
Door remotes work
Rear hatch opens
Dome lights work
PDM off or dead
Battery voltage is at the underhood fuse box.
Scanner reads "unable to connect to CAN"
Prior to "no-start", I hadn't touched anything.
Prior to sitting, it started and everything worked.
I appreciate all help and suggestions.
I would hate to flat-bed it to the dealer.
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by JBort; 11-09-2021 at 05:30 PM. Reason: Problem solved!
#4
Still no new discoveries.
All underhood fuses are good. Verified. Interior fuses are good. Rear current monitor fuse is good.
There is NO cig. lighter fuse. All aux-pwr fuses are good.
No recalls!
All the easy checks have shown no issues.
So what could have fried by installing a new battery?
All underhood fuses are good. Verified. Interior fuses are good. Rear current monitor fuse is good.
There is NO cig. lighter fuse. All aux-pwr fuses are good.
No recalls!
All the easy checks have shown no issues.
So what could have fried by installing a new battery?
Last edited by JBort; 10-12-2021 at 12:10 PM. Reason: added "no recalls"
#5
#6
The new battery could be bad, take it back and get it load tested.
The wires on the starter could be loose.
The starter could be bad, you could remove it and get it bench tested.
The ignition switch could be bad.
A ground wire could be loose or corroded.
The wires on the starter could be loose.
The starter could be bad, you could remove it and get it bench tested.
The ignition switch could be bad.
A ground wire could be loose or corroded.
#9
Fuse #29 underhood is the OBD port power.
Check the run relay position #51 and the crank relay position #24 underhood fuse box
Sounds kind of like something in the steering column. Did the previous owner have any non standard equipment, like a theft alarm/immobilizer.
Check the run relay position #51 and the crank relay position #24 underhood fuse box
Sounds kind of like something in the steering column. Did the previous owner have any non standard equipment, like a theft alarm/immobilizer.