Need some help with OBD codes.

Background:After finishing the above repairs 2-1/2 weeks ago, when the engine started, 2 OBD codes showed up together
P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit and
B1325 - Device Power #1 (low current #1) or Door Ajar Lamp Circuit Short To Battery

Over the next 2 days, I got 5 more; some together, some by themselves.
P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Sensor Circuit Low
P0122 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit Low
P0223 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit High
P0171 - System Too Lean Bank 1
B1869 - Lamp Air Bag Warning Indicator circuit failure

While trying to remove the CkPS to test it, the plastic housing shattered in many pieces, so I replaced the sensor. I cleared the codes to see if any would return, but none of them have.

The middle of last week, I noticed a significant oil leak. After cleaning the entire side and bottom of the engine and transmission including the starter motor, A/C compressor, intake manifold and throttle body, and running the engine, the starter and sending unit were covered in oil, and there was not a drop on the block or oil pan. I replaced the Oil Pressure Sending Unit, and the leak stopped.

Last night and today, I have gotten these, coupled with a message on my dashboard, "Reduced engine power"
P2135 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A"/"B" Voltage correlation
P1516 - Command vs Actual Throttle Position Correlation (TAC Module) Error

What does anyone make of all this? With all the various components the OBD codes have pointed to, I am wondering if there is a wiring or ECM problem.

 

If you didn't have all these specific codes before you did the work, then I would assume it's a reassembly problem.
Check all your wiring connections and especially take a close look to make sure all your grounds are connected and tight.

Why blame the ECM ? They don't just go bad and die while you're working on the car. UNLESS, you left the battery connected during R&R and shorted it out.

 

Seems the battery was not disconnected whilst any of the repairs were done, unless you just omitted that in your description.
Also you need to determine the condition of your battery, these trucklets don’t cotton to a weak battery.
As FMG states retrace your connections, ensure you reconnected the ground wires, that they are clean and tight.
Check your under hood fuse box halves are tight, and the relays, fuses are pressed tightly into their sockets.

 

Did you recalibrate the crankshaft sensor? (P0335)

You have a loose or frayed wire. My guess is you bent a pin when you plugged the ECM up.

 

Thanks, gentlemen.

The ECM came up as a possible cause in a list of causes for at least one, if not more, of reported fixes, and it seemed to me that this many codes showing up might have one or two root causes.

Yes, the battery was disconnected. I know I don't always disconnect it, but for something this extensive, I did.

I'll check all the connectors I disconnected and the fuse panel - I had removed it to access the mount underneath the panel (I was trying to shift the engine because it was too close to the frame on the other side to get my breaker bar on the belt tensioner).

I did not recalibrate the CkPS. I'll try to find someone with a scan tool to do that for me.

 

The fuse box is probably the problem. The P0335 will remain since the CKP was replaced.

 

Actually, since the CkPS was replaced, neither the P0335 nor any of the other codes in the longer list have returned.

The only one remaining is the P2135 with the Reduced Engine Power message.

 

P2135 is directly related to a frayed wire at the EVAP valve bracket.

Here is part of the TSB, there is more detail if you get the complete doc in the Official TSB thread.https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...-thread-23231/

 

[QUOTE=donbrew;839154]P2135 is directly related to a frayed wire at the EVAP valve bracket.

Thanks, donbrew. I'm going to check it right now.

 

Well, I didn't see any frayed wires, didn't see anything loose. I cleared the P2135 and ran the engine until it reached operating temperature. I was logging some live data on my BlueDriver code reader (just playing around with it - I don't have enough experience to know what it's all for) when I turned the engine off to add a little coolant. When I started it back up, it was REALLY rough; the P2135 was replaced with P2176 (Throttle Actuator "A" Control System - Idle Position Not Learned).

Just yesterday I read a warning to NOT move the plate that is inside the throttle body. I admit that I did not know anything about that warning while I was cleaning everything up when the head was off, and I know I moved it several times while I was cleaning the inside of the throttle body. With all these codes having something to do with the throttle, could I have damaged the gears?
Is there any way to check the throttle body without replacing it? I COULD go to my local Pull-A-Part - they have them for about $30 with a $5 core charge...