If oil is getting sucked into the intake, it would then be ingested through the intake valves or past the valve guide seals . If the fluids aren’t as bad as you thought, change them and clean the valve cover , most likely that’s the source of the oil to the intake.
I soaked mine overnight in a solution of hot water and Dawn dish soap in a 5 gallon bucket, I flipped the cover every 30 minutes for the first couple of hours to ensure everything was clean.

 

I went ahead and cleaned the valve cover baffles as best as I could. Transmission fluid is all back in along with a new filter, pan, gasket, and seal. I got a quart of radiator flush and going to flush the radiator. I put 5 ounces of seafoam in with the new oil.
No idea where the oil is coming from at this point. I've tried searching here and the cobalt forum and couldn't find much. I'm guessing it's either the water pump leaking or a cracked block at a spot with high oil pressure.

Just gonna run it for another 300 miles or so and see if anything improves. It might take a while for me to get the 300 miles. I'll keep an eye on the coolant and see if more oil starts mixing. I will also try to only run it for longer periods of time so I don't have to worry about condensation.

 

Keep us updated, please

 

Don't use chemical flushes on Aluminum engines!

 

Wasn't aware that chemical flushes aren't good for aluminum engines - even when it says they work with them? That's good to know.
I'll follow RJ's post for the SS coolant flush and do that instead. Thanks for the recommendation donbrew. I'll keep you guys up-to-date.

 

Ever seen the outside of an aluminum engine after using chemical engine cleaners?
They may say they are safe. GM says don't do it, plain clean water is good enough. Modern coolant does not clog things up unless you added something or didn't use Dexcool.

 

Alright - no more chemicals for aluminum then.
I just drained the water pump and all that came out was clean coolant. Looks like there was just a little bit of oil in there.
I went and removed the thermostat and it was completely covered in oil. The gasket was also ripped a lot and not with the thermostat housing. I just replaced the thermostat with a GM Genuine one last year. Is it safe to just clean it up and then buy a new gasket for it?
I'm assuming that it makes sense that all the oil got pushed to the t-stat, but I thought I would see a little more oil if it were leaking at the water pump.

 

If you have a Genuine ACDElco part number 131-158 you should be ok, but GM sells a few that "fit".
If you are talking about the rubber gasket that fits around the T-stat most auto parts stores sell them for a $ or 2. If you mean the inner rubber gasket you have the wrong t-stat. There is no "traditional" gasket.

 

yep, just the outer one fell apart - no inner rubber gasket anymore on the new one.

 

I know that my local NAPA sells just the gasket. In fact, the almost always include it with a new t-stat that comes with one on it. (commission sales)