OS wheel vibration driving me mad! help!
#1
![Exclamation](https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/images/icons/icon4.gif)
I'm not sure exactly how this forum thing works...but I need some help...
I have an 07 hhr ls... I recently put on a set of 20x8.5 boss 318 chrome wheels... the problem is that between 45 and about 60 I get a ridiculous vibration through out the car... What I am wondering is if anyone would happen to know what this could be attributed to?
I've had them balanced and rebalanced to no avail..
I'm beginning to think it could be one of three things...
a) the tires I have on them (falken fk452-- 225/30 zr20) are to narrow;
B) the rim is just to big and to much weight for the car
c) the rim is bent ever so slightly and I cant tell but its becomes quite noticeable while driving...
If anyone has had this problem or a similar one and has any suggestions as to what to do, any help is greatly appreciated! thank you in advance!
I have an 07 hhr ls... I recently put on a set of 20x8.5 boss 318 chrome wheels... the problem is that between 45 and about 60 I get a ridiculous vibration through out the car... What I am wondering is if anyone would happen to know what this could be attributed to?
I've had them balanced and rebalanced to no avail..
I'm beginning to think it could be one of three things...
a) the tires I have on them (falken fk452-- 225/30 zr20) are to narrow;
B) the rim is just to big and to much weight for the car
c) the rim is bent ever so slightly and I cant tell but its becomes quite noticeable while driving...
If anyone has had this problem or a similar one and has any suggestions as to what to do, any help is greatly appreciated! thank you in advance!
![Confused](https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/images/smilies/icon_confused.gif)
#2
it could be a force variation causing the vibration not an out of balance problem. this can be caused by the wheel or the tire. a computer simulated road test would find this problem.
it also could be an out of round tire or a wheel out of round or a stiff spot in the tire.
i am assuming there was no vibration before the wheels and tires were changed.
it also could be an out of round tire or a wheel out of round or a stiff spot in the tire.
i am assuming there was no vibration before the wheels and tires were changed.
#3
It could also be cause by wheels that are designed to be hub-centric.... Meaning they need to be fitted to the center hub of the car to run true. When the rims were installed did the center hole fit "tight" to the hub or was there play at the hub. If there was play you can get rings that fit between the hub and the center hole of the rim..... this will keep the rim centered on the hub when the rim is mounted.
#7
It could also be cause by wheels that are designed to be hub-centric.... Meaning they need to be fitted to the center hub of the car to run true. When the rims were installed did the center hole fit "tight" to the hub or was there play at the hub. If there was play you can get rings that fit between the hub and the center hole of the rim..... this will keep the rim centered on the hub when the rim is mounted.
#8
The VERY FIRST thing to check is the rotor retainer washers.
Many aftermarket wheels do not have the machined relief for the washers to fit in.....the OEM's do.
Remove the rims and see if the retainers are still on (usually 2 per wheel). If they are, spin or cut them off. They are only needed during the assembly process as the vehicle progresses down the assembly line.
Then remount the rims and tighten the lug nuts in the customary "star" pattern....using a torque wrench at 100'#.
After that, get back with us.....but I would bet that's your problem.
Many aftermarket wheels do not have the machined relief for the washers to fit in.....the OEM's do.
Remove the rims and see if the retainers are still on (usually 2 per wheel). If they are, spin or cut them off. They are only needed during the assembly process as the vehicle progresses down the assembly line.
Then remount the rims and tighten the lug nuts in the customary "star" pattern....using a torque wrench at 100'#.
After that, get back with us.....but I would bet that's your problem.
#9
I agree with Snoopy first..
Then if necessary:
I'd look for a custom wheel & tire shop that uses a "ROAD FORCE" wheel balancer.. It tells the operator everything, even if the tire needs rotated a bit to use less wheel weights, rim run-out, tire run out, & etc...
This will give you a computer print out also...
I had my S-10 American Racing Rims balanced like 6 or 7 times. They finally sent me to a shop with a "ROAD FORCE" balancer.. Smooth as glass after that..
Then if necessary:
I'd look for a custom wheel & tire shop that uses a "ROAD FORCE" wheel balancer.. It tells the operator everything, even if the tire needs rotated a bit to use less wheel weights, rim run-out, tire run out, & etc...
This will give you a computer print out also...
I had my S-10 American Racing Rims balanced like 6 or 7 times. They finally sent me to a shop with a "ROAD FORCE" balancer.. Smooth as glass after that..
#10
It could also be cause by wheels that are designed to be hub-centric.... Meaning they need to be fitted to the center hub of the car to run true. When the rims were installed did the center hole fit "tight" to the hub or was there play at the hub. If there was play you can get rings that fit between the hub and the center hole of the rim..... this will keep the rim centered on the hub when the rim is mounted.