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P0171, No AC, No engine fan, runs rough higher engine temps

Old Jan 28, 2021 | 11:14 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Bonez
if your freon (134A ) if thats what these cars use, is low the compressor will not run. If the compressor runs the fan will engage as well. If the compressor runs and the fan doesnt engage there is an issue as it must run to keep things cool ( not sure about cold weather and the "defrost" as the compressor runs to help defrost windows by removing moisture, which i assume the fan should be running as well.
Tried that many different ways, fan doesn't come on during conditions where its supposed to. Getting the ac checked after I get rid of this engine code.
Old Jan 28, 2021 | 11:18 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by RJ_RS_SS_350
The water pump seems fine, based on the quick cool down.

The temperature increases when you raise the RPMs, because there are many more fiery explosions happening in the engine.

It really shouldn't get to 219, though. Let's see if the burping helps. You realize that you need to burp it every day for awhile.
Yes, I have read lots of guides on here. May take a couple days, but if I park it with right front lifted every night and top it in the morning, I feel confident it will help a lot.
going to be checking flow of radiator and what not when I flush it. Going the water pump drain route as well. I know its a pain in the butt, but I would rather know for sure how everything looks!
Old Jan 29, 2021 | 01:55 PM
  #23  
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Completely irrelevant but I was cleaning the maf abd throttle body and there was A LOT of gunk! And then the intake elbow seemed to have oil/water condensation built up.

Think im going to do a thorough cleaning and while I have easy access I am going to use electronic cleaner for the ecm/tcm module and take apart the fuse box to exam pins and clean them!

Old Jan 29, 2021 | 05:43 PM
  #24  
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Do not move the throttle body butterfly plate manually! Use throttle body cleaner for that and MAF sensor safe spray for the MAF.
Old Jan 29, 2021 | 06:42 PM
  #25  
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No sir, proper sprays were used. Got car back together, battery was disconnected for 30 minutes and I started it up to check if problem was fixed.

Problem with the AC not working and fan doesnt come on when I hit the defroster, recirculate or rear window defogger. Tommorow I am going to be testing connectors, tracing wires and taking out my Hvac control panel in my car to verify the switches are working and nothing is burnt or loose.

I searched for a diagram of the ac wire diagram so I can trace and see where I need to check. I found one for the ac panel inside but the overall Hvac system.

Is there a link that will give access ti the diagrams or will I have to buy Mitchell or alldata?
Old Jan 29, 2021 | 06:46 PM
  #26  
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I forgot to add, when I initially engaged my key to let it prime after hooking battery up, I heard a constant clicking sound, sounded like a relay but it didnt feel like it was coming frok the relay in the BCM. It sounded like it was coming from behind the AC controls and Radio area. But as far as I can see, I dont see a relay back there.
Old Jan 29, 2021 | 07:05 PM
  #27  
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Heat defrost door actuator motor?

burnt HVAC controls or relay
Old Jan 30, 2021 | 04:23 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Oldblue
Heat defrost door actuator motor?

burnt HVAC controls or relay
Just got fron outside, I was able to replicate the problem with the clicking. As yoy suggested thr actuator motor appears to be clicking because everytime I cycle through floor, defrost etc I can hear it move. All settings blow where they are supposed to. I also noticed my drivers side heated seat doesnt work anymore, the buttons light up but after a minute or so it flashes. I seen on this diagram that the drivers side appears to linked to the AC button., am I reading that wrong? I didnt see where it went to a relay unless its internal?

Old Jan 30, 2021 | 05:11 PM
  #29  
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Would you please just check the wires to the pressure switch. I suspect that the guy that played with the alternator did something to them. Have you tried hot wiring the clutch? Try hotwiring the pressure switch. Stop over thinking.
The blend door moves automagically. The rear defrost doesn't do anything to the AC. Pressure switches are not expensive and they are DIY with a Schrader valve behind them.

Looking at the butterfly; did the car sit outside for a long time?
Old Jan 30, 2021 | 05:21 PM
  #30  
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What is circled is the blower motor, not the AC button. The section of the diagram you've provided doesn't show anything conclusive.

My Haynes manual shows 6 wires from the HVAC headunit logic for heated seats. It doesn't differentiate between driver side or passenger.

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