When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Problems/Service/RepairsIf you have a problem with your HHR, want a tip on repairing or performing a particular service to you HHR here is the place to post!
How did you miss the point?
The root problem is the catalytic converter. It does not matter if you need a smog inspection or not the cat is important. Don't bother with anything else until it is fixed.
I am sorry if that is too blunt.
no it's not blunt - just to the point. Thank you. I see that converters jsut have the 3 bolts at the top and 2 on the back - i think the top half could be reached from the engine bay with the airbox out of the way, but the car sits so low i guess it needs to be put up on jack stands to be able to get the back half off and remove it from under the car. There's also the O2 sensors that need to be removed, correct? on in front of the cat and one behind? Seeing as the mileage is at 193K and this has been an issue for some time, would it be prudent to also just put new O2 sensors in as well?
New O2 sensors wouldn’t hurt, you can reach the three fasteners from the top and the connections for the sensors, the 2 bolts under the car might just snap off they are studs if originals. Soak them with PB Blaster .
Do NOT use silicone anti-seize on the sensors; most new ones come with a special goo. NGK/NTK is my preferred brand (they made the factory part), avoid Bosch. You can "borrow" the special socket wrench. Be careful with the wires and connectors.
The top ones are possible from the top, maybe easier with a 32 inch extension from the bottom. Lots of your favorite penetrating oil, CRC, WD40,Kroil etc.
Remember the cat gets up to around 1500F, don't do it without cooling down. I have a nice second degree burn scar on my forearm.
A note: that special socket and a breaker bar are to long to get the sensors out, besides if your installing new ones , you can do that on the ground with a 7/8 open end wrench or even a 20” adjustable crescent
i won't have a problem with the cat being hot since the car hasn't run in over a week ;-) but yeah, familiar with accidentally coming into contact with things like hot manifolds and such.
I sprayed the bolts on both ends judiciously with PB blaster - have a can of freeze off laying around too. Found the combo can be quite effective in the past.
While under the car looking for where the rear O2 sensor is, i was able to follow the wire up behind the heat shield and then can't see where the connector attaches, but i didn't look too hard as i got distracted because what really has me wondering is why ALL the cats i see online - even rockauto under the 2006 2.2 listing all look the same - in that there's the rear plug behind the cat (like mine) and the front O2 plug in front between the flex pipe and the cat (NOT like mine)
The cat on MY car doesn't have the front O2... at least not there. What i think is the front O2 sensor is actually in front of the flex pipe flange. Does anyone else with a 2006 have that set up? I guess it's maybe not a big deal if the new cat can just have a short plug bolt on the front O2 input and swap out the O2 on my car where it's at now?
And yes, i'm not going to bother with keeping the old O2 sensors - so just have to detach the connector on the rear one... It will be a challenge to get the wire fed behind the heat shield if i can't get the car up off the ground enough to work.
Rear O2 sensor flex pipe - front O2 sensor? bottom right Front O2 sensor?
Most of the "fits all" come with a bolt to block the unused bung, use the same sealant as the sensors. You have to unfold the heat shield to get the wire out, then the connector becomes accessible.
The cat gets much hotter that the exhaust manifold, by 1,000 F.
If you got sprayed with fuel but the pressure gauge read zero, you’re not doing it right.
It may help to know that if the car doesn’t start in a just few seconds, the fuel pump shuts off. Try it! You say you here the fuel pump start. Turn the key just to start and you’ll hear the fuel pump. Now just wait, and you’ll hear it quit.
If you leave the car overnight, there’s a good chance there will be no fuel pressure until you turn the key. Don’t. Connect the gauge first, and maybe you won’t spill any fuel. Maybe.
There’s a check valve that should hold the fuel pressure for at least a few minutes. I don’t remember what the fuel pressure specs are. Around 60 psi I think.
i haven't had a chance to do anything with the HHR until after work today where i wanted to double check the fuel presure situation. So car has been sitting another week and this is what i did. Hooked up fuel gauge (really need to just buy one - they charge $160 at autozone to borrow one!)
Hooked up - gauge read about 32/34. Turned key on - stayed at that level... Decided to see if maybe it would start... Almost did... Presurre jumped to 58/60.... turned key off and watched gauge. Took about 5 min and slowly dropped down to 34.. from 58-50 was fairly quick... then much slower from 50 -34. Continued to monitor it for another 15 min and pressure stayed around 32/33. Is this the sign of a failing fuel pump?
