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Paint Lifting Off Question

Old Nov 2, 2025 | 07:35 PM
  #1  
Bird Doo Head's Avatar
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Paint Lifting Off Question

Hi!
I have a 2006 HHR that I bought new. There was a stone chip on the hood that was starting to rust. I sanded the rust off and taped the area to spray primer. When I removed the tape, paint under the tape lifted off. I think the primer is still on the car (brown color).
I used light duty masking tape, used for taping on wall paper when painting, so i know the tape wasn't too strong.

I took some tape and started pressing & removing all around the repair area. Lots of paint came off near the original damage. I kept going until no more paint lifted. I tried various random areas on teh car and no paint lifted.

Do you have any idea why the paint lifted in this area? Could the stone chip have "popped" the paint loose? (It looked fine until I used the tape.)

And, if I may ask a second question-
There was paint bubbling inside both front doors where the outer skin wraps up and is welded to the inner skin. The metal underneath is not perforated & is solid. I removed the rust and primed.
Do you think if I spray Fluid Film in from the weep holes that it will prevent further rust?

Thanks For Advice!
Paul

Old Nov 6, 2025 | 10:26 AM
  #2  
PulpFriction's Avatar
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I’m not a fan of the (urethane waterborne) paint. I think the old acrylic paint stood up to the sun better. Any car that sees a lot of sun is doomed. Doesn’t seem to matter what color.

But use less aggressive tape.

At this point, you’re kinda face with the choice of a fairly obvious repair, or a hood repaint. Some of the detail shops, the ones with significant experience and used car dealers for clients, might know where you can find a really good touch-up artists.

Last edited by PulpFriction; Nov 7, 2025 at 05:27 PM.
Old Nov 6, 2025 | 01:20 PM
  #3  
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A masking tape for wall paper isn’t good for masking car paint. Use a proper tape from 3M for automotive use .
you can squirt fluid film into the door cavity to prevent more rust from forming. The more you cut off the oxygen to the metal the less rust you’ll get.
Old Nov 7, 2025 | 04:42 PM
  #4  
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Thank You PulpFriction & OldBlue for taking time to reply and to give helpful advice. I very much appreciate it.

To be honest, I very much messed up on this repair- in more than one way.

After sanding & feathering edges, I used Upol 0924 spot putty glazing compound for the blending edges into the existing paint. I sanded & primed. Here is the mistake: On the tube there are no directions, so I used it like other spot putties I've used many years ago. Some is on bare metal, some is blended onto primer.

Upon going to a different store for something unrelated, I noticed this #0924 in a box. Well now! The box has directions. (The tube I bought had no box & no directions). The directions say to use on bare metal. So, I have some on bare metal and some feathered onto existing primer or paint.
I think I will wait a few days to learn if the putty stays in place or something bad will happen under it.

My other mistake was forgetting to roll the tape edges back when priming. Now I have a crisp primer-meets-tape edge to feather into the surrounding paint. What a knucklehead!

Here's Hoping!
Paul

Old Nov 7, 2025 | 04:51 PM
  #5  
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I’m sure most painters learned the hard way too.
Old Nov 13, 2025 | 11:45 AM
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Get some Phosphoric acid..... its food grade so basically safe to use.
Mix it at 40% concentrate and spray wherever rust it, it will turn it a black paintable oxide and prevent further rust completely. I am getting ready to do the entire underside of my truck.
Plenty of youtube videos on this and you can buy on amazon, walmart...ect...
Old Nov 15, 2025 | 07:18 PM
  #7  
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Thanks Old Blue for the words of encouragement: I’m sure most painters learned the hard way too.
I was able to sand the primer tape ridge edges nicely with 2,000 wet. Next will be spraying color coat and clear- if the weather gives me a day before spring.

Thanks Bonez for the Phosphoric Acid mention. I do have some I've used with success on many other projects. But I forgot to use it where the door skin seam had rust bubbles. For those, I was able to sand to bare metal, then prime. Your acid plan would have been faster in this non-critical appearance area. I surely will remember it for the next rust spots.

When done painting, I'll shoot Fluid Film as Old Blue mentioned inside the doors. I have a long tube to go on the can. It has a tip that shoots the stuff in many directions. I used to use it on my GMC pickup in the doors. (It only took me three years to figure out that the windows shoudl be rolled up before spraying. What a mess!)


Paul
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