Hey all. Just replaced my end links and 1 sway bar bushing with the helpful info I got on this forum, but I hit a snag on the passenger side 10mm sway bar bracket bolt.

The head of the 10mm bolt is messed up.

I'm not sure how it happened, but I tried 2 different 10mm sockets (one deep and one regular w/ extension) and they both kept slipping out after a 25 degree turn.
I ran my fingers along the bolt head and it feels like 2 corners are rounded off.

Has anyone had this issue and know of a remedy?

I found this diagram which shows the bolt: https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.c...roduct=2579302 (#30)
but it doesn't show it in the parts list nor does it show the nut for it.

I'm going to look into how to get it out on google. Assuming I need to grind it off or drill through it.

Thanks for any feedback.

This is the bolt I'm referring to in this tutorial: It's the tricky bolt that people have problems with where the nut is blocked by the frame.

 

If you remove the 2 big bolts through the lower control arms you can drop the engine cradle enough to get to the top, but a jack under the transmission for support. I bet you need to replace the lower control arms, anyway. That bolt goes through the bushing that is normally bad.
Is there some reason you can't go to your local GM parts department? If they don't have the part in stock they can likely get it.

 

I will contact them tomorrow and try to explain what bolt/nut it is. Hopefully they can help me.

This might be the bolt: 11610150 or 11562343 (might be the easier one)
This might be the nut: 11517996 or 11514598. (might be the easier one)

per this diagram:


I will look tomorrow and try to find those control arm bolts and see what it all entails. I'm due for control arm replacement and planning to do that around DEC/JAN. Budgeting for xmas right now.

 

#37 and #30 , I’ve used a regular bolt to replace a messed up one, had to file the hole in the cradle to get a socket in there

I google the part number

https://www.crateenginedepot.com/Bol...43-P51361.aspx

 

Once both #27 are out the rear of the cradle is free to lower an inch or so.
#35-38 & 29, 30 are what you need. Including the bushing.

 

Ended up getting it out (damn near half a year since I made this thread) using a quinn bolt extractor set from harborfreight. Used the 10mm bit and it fit perfectly.
It was very close though so I placed tape around the bit and extension. Did the same for the new bolt once I got the old one out.
I thought I was going to have to create a bigger hole to accommodate these types of bits, but thankfully it all worked out in the end.

Thanks for all yalls help.

 

Almost had issues with my passenger side lower control arm.
It was seized in the ring thing and it was shredding the rubber that was left. Just rubbing spinning around over and over.
I was dumbfounded for around 30 minutes until I looked at the new one (got the delphi LCAs from rockauto) and realized there was this metal ring that the bolt slides through.
I had to look it up and found out the huge issues some people have with the hhr lca and this bolt causing nightmares.
Then the nut cage thing. Thankfully mine was still in working order.

I didn't want to cut it because I don't have a cordless grinder. So I blasted it with pb blaster(spray can) for a week (sprayed top/middle/bottom of LCA bolt/ring).
Then I took a chisel and wacked the ring portion over and over again. I would wack top/mid/bot and would turn the bolt a bit to expose the other side.
I then used a pry bar against the rubber and ring to act as a stop, loosened it and it started loosing itself from the lca ring thing. I could hear it grinding away all the build up and a lot was falling out.
The bolt looked like a beaver got after it.

EDIT: Also bought 2 new bolts for LCA from local GM shop. Added some anti seize to both of them. Hoping that was useful.

 

Awesome you got it done!
for future readers, I suggest to use a 10 mm 6 point deep socket, 3/8 drive. Hold that upper nut tight , and as always soak it with PB Blaster!