well my schedule cleared up so I'll see if i can reach the plug for that today without taking the bumper and everything off, the 12v source needs to be able to put out 30 amps I assume? So, hm, should I just use the cars battery? i don't have another source that can output 30A

I feel like there has been many cases now where it would have been benificial to own something like this. 120v AC to 120V DC - 100A
that would cover just about everything that might ever come up for my 12v needs and projects

 

You are not going to be running for long; just a wire from the front lug on the fuse bow (+12v) and a wire to a nut on the strut tower (ground). Relax, not rocket science. If you tend to be a total klutz you should tut an inline fuse on the + wire, otherwise just don't touch the 2 together or the + to ground.
The lt blue wire is +12v and the black is ground.

 

Thanks - that is what I suspected I could do! I'm just extremely meticulous and make sure I get things crystal clear first when I have never done a thing before, habit after 10 years of microbiology lab SOPs. I'm a quick learner I just need to do it physically, learning electronics is new to me as well in the past couple years. All of this will greatly help me going forward, thanks.

So I'll run a wire from the front fusebox lug to B and a wire from ground to A. Just like you said the diagram even specifies Blue, it looks like.

 

Probably a good idea to check that ground G105.

 

How does one check a ground, you mean just make sure it is completing the circuit?
I was out there for like 45 minutes lol, part of it was tfinding that my alligator clips wire soldering was broken under the sleeve after i spent time setting those up.
so I just stripped a lot of wire and wrapped it around the bolts, I used my multimeter to ensure that I got good contact to the + lug and ground, 12V as seen, made sure I had the positive wire on blue.
made sure the wire ends i was pressing into the fan plug had 12v output.

Sadly, it did not run. I fiddled with the plug contact for a while to make sure i was getting enough contact



Yes the oil dipstick is out, it was in the way.

So now i'm looking at a cooling fan motor replacement? looks like they are pretty cheap. Also, what would be next to check on the AC? the current fuse is still holding, but something blew #22 twice, the relays are good.

 

replacement looks easy. Looks like this is the one https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE620951

oh ****, that fan being out also makes the AC not work, ha, watch, it's going to be two birds with one stone. yeah, i'll swap the fan asembly, that is pretty clear now I assume?

 

Not sure it works that way. The cooling fan won't run if the compressor doesn't run. The cooling fan should turn on when coolant temperature reaches 219 degrees, regardless of the AC compressor.

But you applied current and ground to the fan and it didn't run, so yes, get a new fan.

Then we'll continue to diagnose the AC.

 

Someone was wrong on the internet? wonder what made him say that.
I had already ordered it! Yes, it was pretty clear. should arrive tomorrow.

 

I don't think anyone here said that the compressor won't run unless the cooling fan runs. The compressor running is one of the triggers for the cooling fan to run. You just got it twisted up in your head.

 

ohh no no i'm referring to what the guy in the video says at 8:45, but yea, people are wrong on the internet all the time, there's an entire trend of just boldly making false statements on tiktok, but this guy gives the impression he had a direct experience with the fan affecting the A/C, might just be relaying some info incorrectly he heard somewhere though.

I'd certainly trust a forum mod over a video.