The seal on the passenger side hasn’t leaked or shows any signs of damage it was only the driver side think you would go through the trouble of replacing the seal? Granted I just took a flat head bent the seal some and pulled it out with needle nose, and then used a large socket to tap it in. On the driver side I only replaced the green seal (outer). The passenger side however is banging when going over bumps like the driver side was and has got worse since changing driver side.

 

The seal won’t bang and clunk. The cv axle will.

 

So I was at Walmart pulled into parking lot foot at rest.. noticed the car was barely rolling along .. pressed the ac button and the car speeds up and starts rolling like I guess I feel it should? Like a normal car does while idling along. It was as if something kicked on and I could feel the car speed up, foot still at rest. You know I do hear some whining around the alternator, the belt goes on the alternator & ac right? Think alternator is ready to lock up? Therefore it’s not pushing enough voltage? Turning ac on would help alternator drive the belt therefore picking up the slack the alternator is not doing perhaps making my transmission act crazy due to low voltage? I see they replaced the battery 1 month before I got the car. I did leave out some details .. the service airbag light, abs, brake, trac lights are all on the airbag light just started the trac abs was intermittent not all the time, but has started to most the time now.

 

Tighten the 4 bolts in the fuse box.


They are 7 mm

 

Is one of those unimportant warning lights the CheckEngineLight?
The reason for the "transmission problems" is those lights.
I suggest you go by a big box auto parts store and have the OBD codes read whether or not the light is on. And get the code NUMBERS, not "something about ...".
If anyone has done anything around the fuse box you should make sure the bolts inside it are very tight, past being afraid they will strip.

 

is this to try and fix the trac/abs/brake? Or airbag? On my drive home I used the AC the entire drive & the car was great power was there & drove fantastic.

Don, I’ll check them again but honestly the light disappears sometimes depending on the gas cap. But I understand where you’re coming from my other vehicle is a BMW. I honestly assumed a code would be there for the transmission but one has never stored.

 

This actually seems plausible to me. What if it just needs a new belt tensioner and maybe a new belt?

How old is the battery?

 

Most traction and ESC lights are caused by the computer turning them off because there is an engine performance code.
Many times all of the dash lights light up because of a bad electrical connection in the fuse box, because the bolts need to get tightened past the "anymore will strip them" point.
The ABS light might come from a bad hub sensor or a bad connection to the EBCM, or a loose electrical connection from the fuse.
As long as the CEL is on the computer is in OpenLoop, meaning that it is not using the sensors and lights light up to alert the clueless driver that they should attend to something.
The EBCM controls the ABS, ESC and Traction Control.
That many lights at the same time screams "electfical".

I don't get the logic in adding load to the belt makes a bad bearing in the alternator work. More load equals less power available
I have no ideas about the AC parts. That does not make any sense, electrical gremlins are unpredictable
HHR is an Americanized Opel not a BMW.

 

I don't think every CEL trigger will keep the ECM in open loop. For example, when I had a CEL set by P0172, the car would start reluctantly due to a very rich condition, then run poorly until the coolant warmed up a bit, then go to closed and correct the a/f and run very well. Watched it happen with the scanner.

There are of course situation in which going to closed loop is likely to make things worse, bad #1 O2 sensors as an example I suppose. Then of course it would make sense to suppress closed loop operation.

 

I understand about the load thing very true however I have noticed after running the car with ac on for my last couple trips the abs/trac/airbag lights have went off and the car is reaching speeds of 65-70 smoothly and quickly. I’ll have to leave early for work one day and have it scanned again, we will see. Am going to get out a voltage tester as well. The battery is 12/22. And to be fair I scanned it previously the brake light, trac, abs, were on but the only codes was an emissions leak & the charcoal canister sensor (something on those lines) were all that showed. Previously on my Monte Carlo they came on due to bad hubs, it’s check engine light was never on the hub went out and guess the sensors kicked them on.