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Problem after replacing front hub

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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 03:26 PM
  #11  
donbrew's Avatar
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Always does. Computer does it to get that idiot behind the wheel to find out what's broken. Sometimes it is a pending code that has not set the CEL.

Could be coincidence. Most performance related code do the same thing.
Old Nov 5, 2018 | 03:11 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by donbrew
Always does. Computer does it to get that idiot behind the wheel to find out what's broken. Sometimes it is a pending code that has not set the CEL.

Could be coincidence. Most performance related code do the same thing.
Got it, "Limp Mode". I had forgot that failsafe.
Old Nov 5, 2018 | 04:18 PM
  #13  
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VVT solenoid is like the Monty Python Spanish Inquisition skit... it doesn't rsvp.
Easy fix, though, and not expensive. Just annoying. Last time, I bought a pair, replaced 'em both, and got the plugs done while I had the cover off anyway.
Old Nov 13, 2018 | 09:11 PM
  #14  
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Ok, so finally got the codes read.
First one was a p0014, exhaust cam position sensor
Then I had c0035, which read as a wheel speed sensor.
Same with the c0040. So, both right and left. Strange on the right as it didn't toss a code before I replaced the left hub. The abs light no longer comes on, so that is something.

So, now it is just the t/c light. and it is not always on. I start car, and it will be off, and I can drive a while and it stays off. Then it randomly comes on. Turning the car off, then back on and it is out, and then comes back on randomly.

So, it seems that the exhaust cam position sensor, is probably the culprit, given the randomness of the light. Also, from pics, it seems the vvs solenoid and the cam position sensor are actually the same part. Judging by the parts I am pulling up.
Old Nov 13, 2018 | 09:30 PM
  #15  
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VVT VALVE is the same as solenoid, Sensor is often confused and rarely the fault. The valves are on top of the engine, the sensors are on the sides. Be smart and replace both valves at the same time

The traction being intermittent points me to wires and connectors.
Old Nov 13, 2018 | 09:36 PM
  #16  
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X2 on a loose wire as Don says.
Old Nov 13, 2018 | 09:48 PM
  #17  
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Which wires and connectors? I have checked both abs connectors and they are secure, but I could spray in some contact cleaner and then a light smearing of di-electric grease. I assume this would be for the wheel speed sensors? Or are you thinking different wires/connectors?

For the solenoid, this would be the part? I do see there is 1 for intake and 1 for exhaust.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3969030&cc=1432558&jsn=497

I checked out a video on the solenoids and they appear to be super easy to replace. I assume I should take off the - battery
Old Nov 13, 2018 | 10:34 PM
  #18  
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Yes disconnect the battery first, check the wires to the solenoids.
Old Nov 13, 2018 | 11:17 PM
  #19  
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Good chance I'll be replacing the worm when I take off the air cleaner. I've had it taped for some time. Suggestions on replacing it? Been thinking of just getting a flex hose for a dryer.
Old Nov 14, 2018 | 08:18 AM
  #20  
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I have had bad experience with Airtex brand products.

Remember to use the discount code if you order from RockAuto. https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/supp...-2019-a-60583/

Wheel Speed Sensors have been known to be bad out of the box.

The 2 digits after C0035 and C0040 are important.

You should have continuity between the 2 wires of the hub. Some folks have managed to get the wires from the harness twisted and broken. The sensor produces an AC current and the computer uses the frequency to calculate the speed.



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