I mainly linked that one, just for verification. I've used airtex and they have worked ok, but you never know.
The wheel speed sensor is just odd to me. I mean, I disconnected the right side when I pulled everything apart, but I didn't twist or anything and it's the same hub. I could see it on the left side, since it is a new hub. I'll have to see if I can warranty the left hub, but I am going to inspect the wires and clean the connectors first. This bomber does have almost 190k on the clock.

The solenoids look stupid easy to replace. Which is kinda odd for this car, normally things are a pita to replace because of corrosion. However, the frame bolt for the lca, actually came out without a struggle. I was pleasantly surprised. I see that an oil change is good to do with new solenoids, may as well add an air filter to that.

 

The How-To section has lots of tutorials.

 

Solenoid replacement how-to: https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...13-14-a-28779/

 

Looked at the tutorial, yep, stupid easy as I thought.

 

I should have asked this earlier, is there a way to test the sensors in the hub?

 

See post #20

 

Sorry, I should be more thorough with my questions. I was thinking numbers such and ohms, ect. But if all I can test for is continuity, that does make it a bit easier.

 

The sensor has no electronics. Continuity ensures that it is capable.

There is also the possibility that water can get into the sensor. If you see problems in wet weather, but not otherwise, you could have a crack in the sensor that lets moisture in.

 

Replacing the Camshaft sensor fixed my TC light and Tranny clunking.
Easy job, even comes with the 10mm bolt.

 

Which camshaft sensor? How did a passive coil of wire embedded in epoxy get damaged? What codes led you to the sensors?