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Serpentine Belt

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Old 02-26-2011, 12:57 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by JoeR
Oil pump is driven off the crank itself.

There are two chains. One drives the cams, the other the balance shafts and water pump.
Thanks for the info Joe !!!


Originally Posted by db/sb
I know but he specifically said 'serpentine' belts.
You're right, was specifically about serpentine belts..
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:57 PM
  #42  
 
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Hi everyone! Snoopy is right. All you need to do is inspect it for cracks and worn signs. The tension should always be fine. Due to the "Belt tensioner".
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:22 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by db/sb
Okay but it really isn't much. It's a home made tool that gets the job done. It consists of a cheap 1/2" drive ratchet with a 3/8" adapter so it can be used on several different vehicles, a metal tube for leverage wedged over it, and holes on either side for the hook.
This will not work on an HHR...there is less than 2" clearance, also nothing to hook it to on HHR, I used an old generator bracket and a short piece of 3/8" square stock welded to it, cut a piece of 3/4" plywood for a prop, worked like a charm. I've been trying to post pics of it but haven't learned how to do that yet.

Bill
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:15 AM
  #44  
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Look at the date on the post you quoted, it's over 2 years old. I hadn't yet changed the belt on the HHR -- that tool was one I had been used on other vehicles. Last November (2012), when I did change the belt on the HHR, I used a cheap Harbor Freight tool, #66344 which I paid under 10 bucks for. The only modification I had to make to it was cutting it down to about 13".
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Old 04-18-2013, 02:13 PM
  #45  
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If you remove the motor mount you can use the standard un modified tool. Takes less time, no knuckle damage.
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Old 04-18-2013, 02:24 PM
  #46  
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Didn't take that much time with the cut down HFT tool. Would have taken more time to remove the mount......
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Old 04-19-2013, 02:47 PM
  #47  
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db/sb,
Oops, didn't mean to start anything, just commenting on what I read. It was a while ago...that under $10 tool is $17.49 now.I'm a cheapskate (think frugal ) old shadetree mechanic, retired machinist, tinkerer that likes to make things that work out of scraps lying around my shop. I have used such a tool as yours on RWD where there is ample room.

Bill
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Old 04-19-2013, 04:27 PM
  #48  
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We cheapskates borrow the tool from Autozone, then remove the motor mount; total cost $0.00 for tools + $12.00 for the belt. I use a cash rewards card for the deposit, so...
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Old 04-19-2013, 05:42 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by scbill
...that under $10 tool is $17.49 now.I'm a cheapskate......
When I bought mine, it was on sale plus I used a 20% off coupon (I'm a chea.....I'm mean I'm frugal also). I didn't mean that you were starting anything, it's just that I hadn't yet looked into changing the belt on the HHR when I posted that.
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Old 04-19-2013, 08:07 PM
  #50  
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Did my '07 2.4 (40K miles) last weekend. By my self. Jacked and supported the rt. front, took the tire off, popped the little access panel push pins out (you don't need to remove this panel your hand will be able to slip behind it and feel the bottom pulleys), used a tool, ratcheting type, I got for Birthday SO I OWN IT ( don't want to hurt anyone's feelings by returning it)(family got it a Sears), rotated the tensioner up, used a piece of 2x2 cut to length to brace it up under tool and wedged against back shelf of front wall and got the belt out (still looked very good, but changed anyway because of age and an approaching cross country trip). I put the new belt down in place and used my hand through the little access panel to make sure the belt was around the crank & A/C pulleys, went back up top and put belt under the tensioner pulley and over alternator pulley. It is almost impossible to get the belt around the crank pulley from the top, super tight area. Checked with my trouble light and all was good, put the access panel back push pins back, the tire on and voila.
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