Soft Brake Pedal
#11
Has the booster been tested? Engine off pump the pedal until hard; keep pressure on pedal and start engine; the pedal should go to the floor if the booster is good.
How many clicks to set the parking brake? Should be 3-4 clicks. More means the rears need adjusting.
How many clicks to set the parking brake? Should be 3-4 clicks. More means the rears need adjusting.
#12
I'm not thinking it's a bad booster/vaccume leak as I think that would cause a stiffer pedal but im also not super experienced with all this. Can someone explain how a bad brake booster would cause a soft pedal with more travel?
#14
Update!
Booster Test
With the car off, I pumped the brakes until they were hard. I still had about 2-4 inches of play with the car off. Started it up with the foot on the pedal and it went close to the floor but I had to push it to get it on the floor.
Parking Brake Test
I live on a hill so I turned the car on and put it in neutral. 3 clicks it still rolled. 4 click felt like there was some contact but not enough to stop the car at that steep of a grade. 5 clicks stopped the car.
After this I'm thinking it will be a brake booster. Considering that the OEM one lasted 170k miles and the first replacement was defective, I think there's a non-zero chance that fluid leaked into the booster. Currently I am not losing any fluid. Is there a way I can check to see if the booster has fluid in it without removing the master cylinder or booster? I noticed there is what looks to be a plug to the left of the mast cylinder on the booster, is it safe to remove that for inspection and replace it with added rtv?
With the car off, I pumped the brakes until they were hard. I still had about 2-4 inches of play with the car off. Started it up with the foot on the pedal and it went close to the floor but I had to push it to get it on the floor.
Parking Brake Test
I live on a hill so I turned the car on and put it in neutral. 3 clicks it still rolled. 4 click felt like there was some contact but not enough to stop the car at that steep of a grade. 5 clicks stopped the car.
After this I'm thinking it will be a brake booster. Considering that the OEM one lasted 170k miles and the first replacement was defective, I think there's a non-zero chance that fluid leaked into the booster. Currently I am not losing any fluid. Is there a way I can check to see if the booster has fluid in it without removing the master cylinder or booster? I noticed there is what looks to be a plug to the left of the mast cylinder on the booster, is it safe to remove that for inspection and replace it with added rtv?
#16
damn alright I'll get that booster ordered. Is a booster a part that can be replaced by an amateur? I'll look into how to adjust the rear brakes as well.
#18
#19
I thought you said a mechanic did the job and replaced all hardware. I hope that means the universal spring and all of the adjusting bits in the correct orientation.
I don't know what "hold adjustment" could possibly mean. They are either adjusted or not adjusted. It sounds like whoever did the brakes was learning how on your car.
While doing the adjusting you HAVE TO periodically step on the brake pedal to center the pads.
I don't know what "hold adjustment" could possibly mean. They are either adjusted or not adjusted. It sounds like whoever did the brakes was learning how on your car.
While doing the adjusting you HAVE TO periodically step on the brake pedal to center the pads.