Spark plug saga I
Deceased
Joined: 06-30-2010
Posts: 25,739
From: Kannapolis NC
Going back to post #1....
Changing plugs with an aluminium cylinder head should only be done on a cold or cool engine.
Trying to wind them out of a warm engine can cause the plugs to come out with the threads from the head still happily attached to them.
Since they are the original plugs, you've found out that they like being where they are, they will put up a fight if you let them.
One trick used by GM techs on Quad 4's and Northstars(aluminum heads too), is to drip some PB Blaster down around the plugs, then drive the vehicle to warm the engine and draw the penetrating fluid down the threads via capillary action.
Once the engine has cooled down, plugs treated to the "PB Trick", will come out much easier. Another thing to consider is that each plug has carbon deposits on its end, these deposits can effectively "weld" the plugs in until it breaks up as the plugs are removed.
Before any plug changes, I treat the subject vehicle to a dose of fuel treatment(Chevron Techron II), and run a tank of high detergent gasoline through with it to remove carbon deposits as much as possible.
GM does not recommend anti-sieze compounds when installing new plugs in aluminium heads. The Cadmium plating on the Delco plugs acts as both a lubricant and built in anti-seize compound to prevent the plugs from corroding in place due to the interaction of dissimilar metals(steel plugs-aluminum head).
And because of the fragile nature of the threads, once the old plugs are out, install the new Delco 41-103 Iridium plugs and be done with it. Curb your curiosity and don't worry about any minor contamination from the penetrating fluid, it will burn away in minutes.
Plus, the Delco plugs are pre-gapped at the factory, unless they have been damaged, install them as is....they will not, and can't, withstand any attempts at gap adjustment.
Changing plugs with an aluminium cylinder head should only be done on a cold or cool engine.
Trying to wind them out of a warm engine can cause the plugs to come out with the threads from the head still happily attached to them.
Since they are the original plugs, you've found out that they like being where they are, they will put up a fight if you let them.
One trick used by GM techs on Quad 4's and Northstars(aluminum heads too), is to drip some PB Blaster down around the plugs, then drive the vehicle to warm the engine and draw the penetrating fluid down the threads via capillary action.
Once the engine has cooled down, plugs treated to the "PB Trick", will come out much easier. Another thing to consider is that each plug has carbon deposits on its end, these deposits can effectively "weld" the plugs in until it breaks up as the plugs are removed.
Before any plug changes, I treat the subject vehicle to a dose of fuel treatment(Chevron Techron II), and run a tank of high detergent gasoline through with it to remove carbon deposits as much as possible.
GM does not recommend anti-sieze compounds when installing new plugs in aluminium heads. The Cadmium plating on the Delco plugs acts as both a lubricant and built in anti-seize compound to prevent the plugs from corroding in place due to the interaction of dissimilar metals(steel plugs-aluminum head).
And because of the fragile nature of the threads, once the old plugs are out, install the new Delco 41-103 Iridium plugs and be done with it. Curb your curiosity and don't worry about any minor contamination from the penetrating fluid, it will burn away in minutes.
Plus, the Delco plugs are pre-gapped at the factory, unless they have been damaged, install them as is....they will not, and can't, withstand any attempts at gap adjustment.
Platinum Member
Joined: 12-06-2009
Posts: 11,719
From: Alabama
I got the irony in whoppers post. It was the response to his post that wasn't exactly clear. That was the reason I said I "think" I was offended.
Doesn't matter really. Kinda busy. Got a couple of acres to bush hog this morning. Wonder if I should change the plugs in the Kubota? After I disconnect the battery of course.
Doesn't matter really. Kinda busy. Got a couple of acres to bush hog this morning. Wonder if I should change the plugs in the Kubota? After I disconnect the battery of course.
Deceased
Joined: 06-30-2010
Posts: 25,739
From: Kannapolis NC
But you know, tractors are very complicated machines, so you may want to carefully transport it to a professional for the plug change...after disconnecting the battery of course.
Platinum Member
Joined: 12-06-2009
Posts: 11,719
From: Alabama
Last edited by firemangeorge; May 30, 2014 at 11:07 PM.
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: 11-19-2008
Posts: 123
From: oregon
Good advice.
Part II of saga is still on hold. Gorgeous sun break, but car is in use with girlfriend.
As it turns out, the engine was extensively treated with Techron Fuel System Cleaner in late summer. A seasonal thing - like to do that before fall oil change. We use Techron gasoline - Texaco or Chevron.
When car went back into action PB Blaster had already been applied. It didn't work overnight on cold engine. I'll make another attempt on cold engine first. If that doesn't work, next attempt will be on warm engine. A fresh puddle of PB Blaster will already be in place to flow down threads once plugs break loose. PB Blaster may not be the best for this application, but that's what I have on hand. Cutting oil for machining aluminum comes to mind.
I see posts where people claim they never had problems removing plugs using anti-seize. Others that claim they never had problems relying on plating. But these do not answer the question. The question is answered by where trouble occurs. I bet there are a lot more problems removing plugs relying on plating v. anti-seize.
For me, the experiment has already been done. I have to assume that factory installed plugs without anti-seize, to 15 ft lb, with heads cold. That was a potential disaster in the making. My intention is to use anti-seize and torque to 15 ft lb on cold engine; assumption is that many competing effects net out any correction for torque.
Entertainment about disconnecting battery was mainly to show the logistical impossibilities that can arise from combination of battery in back and fly by wire door locks. Imagine storing an emergency jump battery with the spare. It would be difficult to impossible getting to that battery by climbing over the seats. It might be more doable to unlatch lift gate under trim, and then go back outside, but how many people know how to do that, and even those that do may find THAT difficult or impossible - depending. That little Laurel and Hardy moment I had was good for a chuckle, but stands also as a serious caution.
Part II of saga is still on hold. Gorgeous sun break, but car is in use with girlfriend.
As it turns out, the engine was extensively treated with Techron Fuel System Cleaner in late summer. A seasonal thing - like to do that before fall oil change. We use Techron gasoline - Texaco or Chevron.
When car went back into action PB Blaster had already been applied. It didn't work overnight on cold engine. I'll make another attempt on cold engine first. If that doesn't work, next attempt will be on warm engine. A fresh puddle of PB Blaster will already be in place to flow down threads once plugs break loose. PB Blaster may not be the best for this application, but that's what I have on hand. Cutting oil for machining aluminum comes to mind.
I see posts where people claim they never had problems removing plugs using anti-seize. Others that claim they never had problems relying on plating. But these do not answer the question. The question is answered by where trouble occurs. I bet there are a lot more problems removing plugs relying on plating v. anti-seize.
For me, the experiment has already been done. I have to assume that factory installed plugs without anti-seize, to 15 ft lb, with heads cold. That was a potential disaster in the making. My intention is to use anti-seize and torque to 15 ft lb on cold engine; assumption is that many competing effects net out any correction for torque.
Entertainment about disconnecting battery was mainly to show the logistical impossibilities that can arise from combination of battery in back and fly by wire door locks. Imagine storing an emergency jump battery with the spare. It would be difficult to impossible getting to that battery by climbing over the seats. It might be more doable to unlatch lift gate under trim, and then go back outside, but how many people know how to do that, and even those that do may find THAT difficult or impossible - depending. That little Laurel and Hardy moment I had was good for a chuckle, but stands also as a serious caution.
Going back to post #1....
Changing plugs with an aluminium cylinder head should only be done on a cold or cool engine.
Trying to wind them out of a warm engine can cause the plugs to come out with the threads from the head still happily attached to them.
Since they are the original plugs, you've found out that they like being where they are, they will put up a fight if you let them.
One trick used by GM techs on Quad 4's and Northstars(aluminum heads too), is to drip some PB Blaster down around the plugs, then drive the vehicle to warm the engine and draw the penetrating fluid down the threads via capillary action.
Once the engine has cooled down, plugs treated to the "PB Trick", will come out much easier. Another thing to consider is that each plug has carbon deposits on its end, these deposits can effectively "weld" the plugs in until it breaks up as the plugs are removed.
Before any plug changes, I treat the subject vehicle to a dose of fuel treatment(Chevron Techron II), and run a tank of high detergent gasoline through with it to remove carbon deposits as much as possible.
GM does not recommend anti-sieze compounds when installing new plugs in aluminium heads. The Cadmium plating on the Delco plugs acts as both a lubricant and built in anti-seize compound to prevent the plugs from corroding in place due to the interaction of dissimilar metals(steel plugs-aluminum head).
And because of the fragile nature of the threads, once the old plugs are out, install the new Delco 41-103 Iridium plugs and be done with it. Curb your curiosity and don't worry about any minor contamination from the penetrating fluid, it will burn away in minutes.
Plus, the Delco plugs are pre-gapped at the factory, unless they have been damaged, install them as is....they will not, and can't, withstand any attempts at gap adjustment.
Changing plugs with an aluminium cylinder head should only be done on a cold or cool engine.
Trying to wind them out of a warm engine can cause the plugs to come out with the threads from the head still happily attached to them.
Since they are the original plugs, you've found out that they like being where they are, they will put up a fight if you let them.
One trick used by GM techs on Quad 4's and Northstars(aluminum heads too), is to drip some PB Blaster down around the plugs, then drive the vehicle to warm the engine and draw the penetrating fluid down the threads via capillary action.
Once the engine has cooled down, plugs treated to the "PB Trick", will come out much easier. Another thing to consider is that each plug has carbon deposits on its end, these deposits can effectively "weld" the plugs in until it breaks up as the plugs are removed.
Before any plug changes, I treat the subject vehicle to a dose of fuel treatment(Chevron Techron II), and run a tank of high detergent gasoline through with it to remove carbon deposits as much as possible.
GM does not recommend anti-sieze compounds when installing new plugs in aluminium heads. The Cadmium plating on the Delco plugs acts as both a lubricant and built in anti-seize compound to prevent the plugs from corroding in place due to the interaction of dissimilar metals(steel plugs-aluminum head).
And because of the fragile nature of the threads, once the old plugs are out, install the new Delco 41-103 Iridium plugs and be done with it. Curb your curiosity and don't worry about any minor contamination from the penetrating fluid, it will burn away in minutes.
Plus, the Delco plugs are pre-gapped at the factory, unless they have been damaged, install them as is....they will not, and can't, withstand any attempts at gap adjustment.
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