SS gets hot
07-27-2018, 07:33 AM
#11
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Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 36,441
If the Dexcool is older than the recommended five years , that’s plausible
07-27-2018, 08:38 AM
#12
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Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,660
DEXCOOL tends to get clumpy or grainy when it overheats; it is trying to seal up what it thinks must be a small leak.
In other words, DEXCOOL wears out from overwork, and can cause clogging.
In other words, DEXCOOL wears out from overwork, and can cause clogging.
08-23-2018, 11:51 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-17-2017
Location: Arz
Posts: 34
SS getting hot
Hi all, I have found this site and it’s members to be very helpful. Lately I have posted some questions and they seem to get removed. It may just be my lack of forum skills? I’m trying again.
So, I have a 2008 ss 216,000. miles, I drive this to work and back daily 90 miles round trip. Recently and unrelated I have replaced the all of the chains, water pump, thermostat, CPS, oh, the turbo also recently when out and I replaced that too. The car has an issue and I’m offering a challenge to diagnose this monster.
Here it is;
When I start the car and drive ( doesn’t matter what time of day) the first 5 miles or so the coolant comes up to temp (189). After that it will fluctuate from 189-185, ( the car seem fully warm and yet the radiator seems to be able to fluctuate between 189-185). Miles 5-10 brings something a little different. Experience, the temp will slowly rise up to 201, and remain there for about 5 miles. With 20 miles left in my commute the temp will slowly climb ( I will let it get 220) at that temp I will turn on the heater and the temp will drop (220-200) it will pretty much stay there unless I turn the heater off, then it will climb again, unless I turn the heater on. ( the heater is removing heat from the engine just like a mini radiator, I have red others here have had adifferent experience. I always check the coolant level it’s in the same place in the tank and under the radiator cap (full). Typically the car wasn’t getting warm unless I was driving in the desert and it was hot. It seems to be more common now. Some things I have done, I have added and stop leak for a head gasket Leak, I don’t notice bubbles in the radiator cap. I put a laser on all coolantaprts to measure the temp, most I can find it 180° on the thermostat housing, when the car is showing 225°. Tomorrow I’m replacing the thermostat and coolant temp sensor. My thought are I have a bad head gasket, but I’m not sure and it’s not an easy fix. Before I go there I’m looking for other opinions. Thanks in adavance! James
So, I have a 2008 ss 216,000. miles, I drive this to work and back daily 90 miles round trip. Recently and unrelated I have replaced the all of the chains, water pump, thermostat, CPS, oh, the turbo also recently when out and I replaced that too. The car has an issue and I’m offering a challenge to diagnose this monster.
Here it is;
When I start the car and drive ( doesn’t matter what time of day) the first 5 miles or so the coolant comes up to temp (189). After that it will fluctuate from 189-185, ( the car seem fully warm and yet the radiator seems to be able to fluctuate between 189-185). Miles 5-10 brings something a little different. Experience, the temp will slowly rise up to 201, and remain there for about 5 miles. With 20 miles left in my commute the temp will slowly climb ( I will let it get 220) at that temp I will turn on the heater and the temp will drop (220-200) it will pretty much stay there unless I turn the heater off, then it will climb again, unless I turn the heater on. ( the heater is removing heat from the engine just like a mini radiator, I have red others here have had adifferent experience. I always check the coolant level it’s in the same place in the tank and under the radiator cap (full). Typically the car wasn’t getting warm unless I was driving in the desert and it was hot. It seems to be more common now. Some things I have done, I have added and stop leak for a head gasket Leak, I don’t notice bubbles in the radiator cap. I put a laser on all coolantaprts to measure the temp, most I can find it 180° on the thermostat housing, when the car is showing 225°. Tomorrow I’m replacing the thermostat and coolant temp sensor. My thought are I have a bad head gasket, but I’m not sure and it’s not an easy fix. Before I go there I’m looking for other opinions. Thanks in adavance! James
Last edited by BlackSS200k; 08-24-2018 at 11:43 AM.
08-24-2018, 06:41 AM
#14
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Join Date: 12-06-2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 11,086
Same issue as before ? Here's a link to the other thread you started about overheating. Doesn't look like your other posts got deleted. Maybe just lack of forum skills (your words)
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...ets-hot-60606/
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...ets-hot-60606/
08-24-2018, 08:35 AM
#15
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Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,660
Merged.
The heater core is Always Hot, turning the heat on does next to nothing.
The cooling fan comes on around 220F or if the AC compressor is on. Turning the AC on (including the defrost) does aid in lowering the coolant temp.
On an SS The coolant is also cooling the oil and the turbo, so the further and faster you drive the more heat there is to dissipate.
The heater core is Always Hot, turning the heat on does next to nothing.
The cooling fan comes on around 220F or if the AC compressor is on. Turning the AC on (including the defrost) does aid in lowering the coolant temp.
On an SS The coolant is also cooling the oil and the turbo, so the further and faster you drive the more heat there is to dissipate.
08-24-2018, 09:11 AM
#16
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-17-2017
Location: Arz
Posts: 34
Definitely my words!
With my car turning on the heater fan lowers the cars digital temp read out, I understand that the core always has water going through it but it’s not always dissipating the heat with air blowing through the core unles the fan is on. When it gets hot in the car from the heater, that heat is being removed from the cooling system. I did notice on another post that others have had the opposite experience. I also found a user who had a faulty t-stat, his car responded the way mine does. I have a new fan, radiator, t-stat I’m replacing my new t-stat, and temp sensor today. My car also has a little shield over the temp sensor, do those go bad? Yes, I’m grasping at straws here. I’m usuallly pretty good at finding and fixing auto related problems but I’m getting nowhere with this issue. The car is not using coolant and the avg MPH is 29.2, the car is running great and I’m stumped.
With my car turning on the heater fan lowers the cars digital temp read out, I understand that the core always has water going through it but it’s not always dissipating the heat with air blowing through the core unles the fan is on. When it gets hot in the car from the heater, that heat is being removed from the cooling system. I did notice on another post that others have had the opposite experience. I also found a user who had a faulty t-stat, his car responded the way mine does. I have a new fan, radiator, t-stat I’m replacing my new t-stat, and temp sensor today. My car also has a little shield over the temp sensor, do those go bad? Yes, I’m grasping at straws here. I’m usuallly pretty good at finding and fixing auto related problems but I’m getting nowhere with this issue. The car is not using coolant and the avg MPH is 29.2, the car is running great and I’m stumped.
08-24-2018, 09:42 AM
#17
Platinum Member
Join Date: 12-06-2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 11,086
It was ask before "what thermostat did you use ?" You never really gave a clear answer to that.
But. The only recommended one is the AC Delco stat. Others have reported issues when using off brand stats.
Is the thermostat your cause of the heating issue ? Hard to say, but it would be a good place to start if it's not a AC Delco in there now.
But. The only recommended one is the AC Delco stat. Others have reported issues when using off brand stats.
Is the thermostat your cause of the heating issue ? Hard to say, but it would be a good place to start if it's not a AC Delco in there now.
08-24-2018, 10:01 AM
#18
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Join Date: 08-03-2010
Location: Lake Ronkonkoma, N.Y.
Posts: 3,564
He did say he used block sealer for a "bad" head gasket. I think his problem is leaning in that direction. But then again if compression was in the cooling system you would think it would push out coolant. Or is it's just enough to aerate the coolant after awhile.
08-24-2018, 11:49 AM
#19
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Join Date: 12-17-2017
Location: Arz
Posts: 34
I have changed the temp sensor, on my way to get T-stat from the dealer. I will change this afternoon. I was thinking that maybe a small head gasket leak pumping air in to the system. I don’t see any evidence of that coolant is clean and after cool down it works fine again for 5 miles. Did K-seal for the heck of it, I’m ready to dispose of the car. Problem is I enjoy driving it and I like the power. The thing drives so effortless at 80+ MPH and I can sleep in it if needed.
08-24-2018, 03:03 PM
#20
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Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,660
The job of the t-stat is to keep the temp ABOVE 180F unless it mysteriously closes it has nothing to do with over heating. You can get a test kit for exhaust gasses in the coolant at your local parts store.
When DexCool overheats it tends to get gloppy, it wears out.
I leave the blower on always for fresh air.
When DexCool overheats it tends to get gloppy, it wears out.
I leave the blower on always for fresh air.
