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SS gets hot

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Old 08-24-2018, 07:48 PM
  #21  
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That’s what I thought, head gasket. I changed the temperature sensor and the t-stat today and no change. There was big difference between the old stat and the new one, the orifice was 1/2” bigger in diameter. I had my hopes up for a second but no luck. Looks like I’m replacing a head gasket, entire engine, or junking the car. Bummer!

thanks for all of the support!
James
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Old 08-25-2018, 09:24 PM
  #22  
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I would do a leak down test first. You say dexcool is pretty orange and motor oil is clean (not milkshake looking) and no smoke coming from exhaust. Never let HHR get hotter than 225°, heads start warping at anything higher than that.... ask me how I know. I had an HHR that a previous owner had poured radiator stop leak into the system, unknowing to me. It partially plugged up the heater core. The heater core is detrimental for the cooling system to work on these cars. Took me a long time and lots of money to figure it out. I have a write up on here some where. If you do fail the leak down test, I would definately get the cylinder head pressure tested and resurfaced before going back with a new head gasket. Best of luck!
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Old 08-25-2018, 10:11 PM
  #23  
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I’m going to check later in the week, if it makes it. I’m really thinking of getting a Chevy Volt. Kind of makes me sad.... Im at the point of too much money and time being spent on this car.
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Old 09-15-2018, 09:21 PM
  #24  
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Well, I went a drove the volt. It’s not for me! New engine from eBay. I’ll mess with the old one once it’s out and on the ground. Kind of a shame, I wanted to run the miles up on that thing..... 217k and still going just get warm on long grades. I can see a bubble in the coolant filler cap every 10 seconds and it failed the hydrocarbons test. I did switch the thermostat and it runs much better, I wonder if there is a separate part for the non turbo hhr. I have 3 stats and one is much bigger in the opening. Makes me think I bought the car with the wrong one, replaced it with the wrong one before getting the correct part installed? Who knows? The new engine goes in 10 days. Any suggestions on other parts to replace with it. I already have a new turbo, wish I wouldn’t have bought that, I would have rather just bought the complete motor for $3400. With fuel injectors, turbo, hoses and everything.





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Old 09-16-2018, 10:19 AM
  #25  
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Almost all parts places will sell the wrong t-stat; that's why we are so adamant about the part number. Even GM will try to sell you their cheap item, yes it fits and has the same 180F rating; but it does not work.

The failing hydrocarbon test tells us why it was getting hot, just have to find out where the leakage is.
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Old 10-03-2018, 11:05 PM
  #26  
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I had my mechanic replace the engine. The car runs great as always, I’m still having issues with cooling. All new GM coolant hoses too. New long block from ZZP. Now the car will get hot when the heater is on, but it’s not predictable. It seems like when first driving, (15 miles) if the heater is turned on the temp will keep climbing (216) until I turn off the temp selector back to cool. Then the temp drops quickly down to 199° with normal driving. If coasting it will be at 194, Im still confused why there is such a drastic difference with the temp in this car. I have heard about air being trapped in the cooling system, I’ve done my best to get it out, not sure what else to do. I have check the T-stat on the stove it opens the temp each time.
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Old 10-04-2018, 07:54 AM
  #27  
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Seems like there’s air locked in the heater core, try burping the cooling system.
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Old 10-04-2018, 09:44 AM
  #28  
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Sounds like the fan control module is not working right. When you turn the AC on the fan comes on. Under normal conditions the fan comes on at about 219F and turn back off at 180F (if you have the correct 180F t-stat). If it get up to 216F at the most, no problem; staying over 220F not so good.

Temp swings between 180F and 220F is normal.

The SS has a variable speed cooling fan controlled by a PWM controller.
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Old 10-04-2018, 12:10 PM
  #29  
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I can hear the variable speed fan working. Not sure if it’s working correctly. Again today when I first start driving turn on the heater and the temp gets to 216 and I turn off. After driving 25 miles heater turned on and temp stays at 200. The temp stays at 199 with AC on. I’ll leave the heater on and see how high it gets. Just super confusing for me.
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Old 10-04-2018, 12:19 PM
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If it doesn't STAY over 220F you are in "normal" area. Does the heat pump out heat? Turning the dial to hot should lower the temp, if anything, marginally.

The only thing the temp control does is direct air flow over the hot and cold coils. Absolutely now control of water flow. The water flow in the heater core is constant.

Remember, in your SS, the coolant is cooling the oil and the turbo in addition to the head.
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