Starting Problems with 2008 HHR (2.2)
Starting Problems with 2008 HHR (2.2)
I'm new to this site so thanks (in advance) for any help.
My HHR (2008) (2.2) has been a good one so far, 99000 miles basically trouble free.
Note: From what I've read about HHR's recently I am considered one of the lucky ones though.
Anyway, my problem is when the car is 'cold' it will crank but not start.
From trial and error - I've learned that - "if I crank it for about 5 seconds, turn off the key and crank it again - 'it starts perfectly.'
Note: when the car is warm it starts perfectly the first time.
Thinking a can of GM additive might help my starting problem - I put a can in ($27) and filled the car with Prem Gas (I usually just use regular).
A block from the service station my CEL came on. duh?
Since I was just beginning a long trip, and I thought the CEL was caused by the additive that I had added - I continued on my trip.
It was 900 miles round-trip and the car ran perfectly (MPG was hand-calculated at 29) although it continued to have the starting issue along with the CEL being on.
Upon returning home I took the car to the Chevy Dealership (I know I know) and they diagnosed my problem as a 'dirty throttle body,' and 45 min later and minus $165 I left the dealership.
Note: the car started correctly when I left (but it was warm) and the CEL was out so I figured everything was fine. ....Not.
The next morning - the car was hard to crank as before and within a few miles the CEL was back on.
I took the car back to the dealership and they ran another test (didn't charge me) and are now telling me that my fuel pump is bad and for $665 my problems will be over. Sure....
Now... what to do?
Obviously, I got screwed by the dealership so.... how do I fix this thing?
Hence, I'm here hoping someone on this site has had a similar problem as mine and can give me some guidance.
Btw, I'm just wondering ...since I paid the dealership with a credit card and did me 'no good' at all - I was wondering if I could refuse payment (file a protest with the credit card company)?
My HHR (2008) (2.2) has been a good one so far, 99000 miles basically trouble free.
Note: From what I've read about HHR's recently I am considered one of the lucky ones though.
Anyway, my problem is when the car is 'cold' it will crank but not start.
From trial and error - I've learned that - "if I crank it for about 5 seconds, turn off the key and crank it again - 'it starts perfectly.'
Note: when the car is warm it starts perfectly the first time.
Thinking a can of GM additive might help my starting problem - I put a can in ($27) and filled the car with Prem Gas (I usually just use regular).
A block from the service station my CEL came on. duh?
Since I was just beginning a long trip, and I thought the CEL was caused by the additive that I had added - I continued on my trip.
It was 900 miles round-trip and the car ran perfectly (MPG was hand-calculated at 29) although it continued to have the starting issue along with the CEL being on.
Upon returning home I took the car to the Chevy Dealership (I know I know) and they diagnosed my problem as a 'dirty throttle body,' and 45 min later and minus $165 I left the dealership.
Note: the car started correctly when I left (but it was warm) and the CEL was out so I figured everything was fine. ....Not.
The next morning - the car was hard to crank as before and within a few miles the CEL was back on.
I took the car back to the dealership and they ran another test (didn't charge me) and are now telling me that my fuel pump is bad and for $665 my problems will be over. Sure....
Now... what to do?
Obviously, I got screwed by the dealership so.... how do I fix this thing?
Hence, I'm here hoping someone on this site has had a similar problem as mine and can give me some guidance.
Btw, I'm just wondering ...since I paid the dealership with a credit card and did me 'no good' at all - I was wondering if I could refuse payment (file a protest with the credit card company)?
First,
to the forum!
HHR's like any vehicle equipped with the OBD II system can give you volumes of information and good places to start the diagnostic process with the OBD trouble codes.
Unfortunately, without knowing what code/codes your HHR has stored, we're playing a guessing game that can run into serious money.
So the first step would be for you to head to your local Advance, Autozone, Napa, etc. Then have them "pull the codes", almost all auto parts places do it for free. Post the codes up here and we'll do our best to give you some directions to look in.
At first blush, it sounds like a fuel pressure issue, but that's a guess only without the trouble codes.
to the forum!HHR's like any vehicle equipped with the OBD II system can give you volumes of information and good places to start the diagnostic process with the OBD trouble codes.
Unfortunately, without knowing what code/codes your HHR has stored, we're playing a guessing game that can run into serious money.
So the first step would be for you to head to your local Advance, Autozone, Napa, etc. Then have them "pull the codes", almost all auto parts places do it for free. Post the codes up here and we'll do our best to give you some directions to look in.
At first blush, it sounds like a fuel pressure issue, but that's a guess only without the trouble codes.
Welcome to the site. I have seen your symptom you have many times a in most cases it's turn out to be the fuel pump of fuel regulator not holding rail pressure.
The fuel pump with code in the system (I'm guessing it was a lean code) should have been easily diagnosed by you dealer. How ever it could be an intermittent problem that just was not there when they checked out the car.
The regulator and the fuel pump are sold as a assembly you will be replacing both with a new pump assembly.
The throttle body cleaning is a service that was more than likely needed anyway and the dealer should credit you there diagnostic fee to this repair.
The fuel pump with code in the system (I'm guessing it was a lean code) should have been easily diagnosed by you dealer. How ever it could be an intermittent problem that just was not there when they checked out the car.
The regulator and the fuel pump are sold as a assembly you will be replacing both with a new pump assembly.
The throttle body cleaning is a service that was more than likely needed anyway and the dealer should credit you there diagnostic fee to this repair.
Good point on crediting the "Diagnostic Fee" back Lucky. Too many dealers are growing fat by charging $100 or more just to plug a vehicle into a Tech II.
The difference between a good tech and a bad tech is what they do with the trouble codes. A good diagnostic tech will use the code as his/her basis to run through the proper diagnostic procedures.
A bad tech uses the code as his/her basis to "shotgun" the problem by throwing parts at it in hopes of fixing it.
The difference between a good tech and a bad tech is what they do with the trouble codes. A good diagnostic tech will use the code as his/her basis to run through the proper diagnostic procedures.
A bad tech uses the code as his/her basis to "shotgun" the problem by throwing parts at it in hopes of fixing it.
Sorry about the lack of code ... the only code it's ever pulled (checked by O'Reiley's/Chevy dealership) is the - 171 - code.
thanks for the quick response - I do appreciate it.
Next: if the consensus seems to be the fuel pump - 'how hard is it to change out myself?'
Although I've never been much on cars - I am a retired Refrigeration/Air Conditioning Mechanic and do know a little about mechanical stuff. As far as cars go though I've never done much outside of changing out alternators, water pumps, and batteries.
Is there a good 'step by step' video on changing a fuel pump?
again, thanks.
thanks for the quick response - I do appreciate it.
Next: if the consensus seems to be the fuel pump - 'how hard is it to change out myself?'
Although I've never been much on cars - I am a retired Refrigeration/Air Conditioning Mechanic and do know a little about mechanical stuff. As far as cars go though I've never done much outside of changing out alternators, water pumps, and batteries.
Is there a good 'step by step' video on changing a fuel pump?
again, thanks.
Lucky
Thanks for the welcome and quick response.
Sorry about the code - and you were right it is a 171 code which as you probably know is a 'lean' code.
Good point on the diagnostic charge - I just hung up the phone from talking to the Service Mgr and he told me they would knock off the diagnostic fee ($90) and the $165 for the 'throttle body cleaning,' ---if---- I let them install the fuel pump, which would end up costing me a total of $410. Since my cost for a fuel pump (online) runs around $200 I'm inclined to let them do this. And, I think they are being 'more than fair' although I still 'must' let them install the fuel pump to get this money deducted, which is leaving a bad taste in my mouth.
What bothers me is his (Svc Mgr) refusal to "guarantee" that my starting problems will be eliminated, and that the CEL light will not throw the same code in a few days.
The reason that came up was when I told him that I would let him change the fuel pump if he could give me that 'guarantee.'
Thanks for the welcome and quick response.
Sorry about the code - and you were right it is a 171 code which as you probably know is a 'lean' code.
Good point on the diagnostic charge - I just hung up the phone from talking to the Service Mgr and he told me they would knock off the diagnostic fee ($90) and the $165 for the 'throttle body cleaning,' ---if---- I let them install the fuel pump, which would end up costing me a total of $410. Since my cost for a fuel pump (online) runs around $200 I'm inclined to let them do this. And, I think they are being 'more than fair' although I still 'must' let them install the fuel pump to get this money deducted, which is leaving a bad taste in my mouth.
What bothers me is his (Svc Mgr) refusal to "guarantee" that my starting problems will be eliminated, and that the CEL light will not throw the same code in a few days.
The reason that came up was when I told him that I would let him change the fuel pump if he could give me that 'guarantee.'
Before buying into the dealer's assumption of a failing fuel pump, give the following a read on the possible causes and solutions to a P0171 trouble code.
A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
*The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled.
*There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
*There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor
*Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection Faulty or stuck open PCV valve
*Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1)
*Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector
*Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!)
*Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor
Possible solutions to address a P0171 trouble code:
*Clean the MAF sensor, using a cleaner designated for use on MAF sensors.
*Check and replace the oxygen sensor if found to be faulty.
*Check for an exhaust leak in the flex pipe between the manifold and the downpipe.
*Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace/repair as required Inspect all hoses and connections in the air intake system.
*Inspect and/or test the intake manifold gaskets for leakage
*Check for proper fuel pressure. Ideally you'll want to monitor short and long term fuel trims using an advanced scan tool if available.
*If you have access, you may want to run a smoke test.
And above all, get a second opinion if you are doubtful as to the first diagnosis, or the competency of the dealership/technician.
A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
*The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled.
*There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
*There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor
*Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection Faulty or stuck open PCV valve
*Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1)
*Sticking/plugged or failed fuel injector
*Low fuel pressure (possible plugged/dirty fuel filter!)
*Exhaust leak between engine and first oxygen sensor
Possible solutions to address a P0171 trouble code:
*Clean the MAF sensor, using a cleaner designated for use on MAF sensors.
*Check and replace the oxygen sensor if found to be faulty.
*Check for an exhaust leak in the flex pipe between the manifold and the downpipe.
*Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace/repair as required Inspect all hoses and connections in the air intake system.
*Inspect and/or test the intake manifold gaskets for leakage
*Check for proper fuel pressure. Ideally you'll want to monitor short and long term fuel trims using an advanced scan tool if available.
*If you have access, you may want to run a smoke test.
And above all, get a second opinion if you are doubtful as to the first diagnosis, or the competency of the dealership/technician.
Man! I guess the days of the ol mechanic listening to the engine and saying "I believe the lifters need to be adjusted' ... are long gone.
With a list of possible faults for the code of 171 how can "anyone" ever be certain what's wrong with these cars (these days)?
I guess it's just "change out parts till something works"...
In my trade - we always looked "down" on fellow mechanics who could only "change out parts" when trying to fix something. The term "parts changer" was a terrible one to be associated with as an Refrigeration/Air Conditioning Mechanic.
But, it appears ... that computers have turned ALL car mechanics into "parts changers."
Thanks for the list associated with code 171.
I will try and do as many of these as possible before I let them change my fuel pump.
I just wish/yearn for the 'black and white' days of my youth.
Back when a car mechanic knew what was wrong with your car and didn't have to close his eyes and GUESS.
Thanks again,
With a list of possible faults for the code of 171 how can "anyone" ever be certain what's wrong with these cars (these days)?
I guess it's just "change out parts till something works"...
In my trade - we always looked "down" on fellow mechanics who could only "change out parts" when trying to fix something. The term "parts changer" was a terrible one to be associated with as an Refrigeration/Air Conditioning Mechanic.
But, it appears ... that computers have turned ALL car mechanics into "parts changers."
Thanks for the list associated with code 171.
I will try and do as many of these as possible before I let them change my fuel pump.
I just wish/yearn for the 'black and white' days of my youth.
Back when a car mechanic knew what was wrong with your car and didn't have to close his eyes and GUESS.
Thanks again,


