843de - I will definitely keep this site in the loop on this problem and thanks for the warnings on being careful (changing the fuel pump) ... my wife told me earlier - 'to just pay the price and get the fuel pump replaced' ... lol ... I wish things were that 'easy' in my mind. I just have a problem playing 'guessing games' with my money.

BTW, my HHR has 99,790 miles on it and I was going to change the plugs out anyway, so I thought now might be a good time to do so, but I've been unable to find a "How to" video on this procedure. Do you happen to know of one?

thanks for the help

 

843de -After that I went into sort of a decline"

what a great 'line.'

 

Give this plug change thread a read, it'll walk you through the steps....

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/main...-change-43374/

Also, use only AC Delco 41-103 Iridium plugs, they're what the engine was designed around, and many years of bad outcomes have shown that they are the only plugs to use in an HHR with the 2.2/2.4 engines.

 

843de - well I've already put 970 miles on the car since the CEL came on and I'm due to be in Oklahoma City in a week or two (where I have a friend (ex-GM Mech) who owns his own shop), so, I'm thinking about waiting till then and have him look at it.

I keep wondering about the CEL and thinking it came on because of the additive I put in it.

I accept the fact that I have a starting issue with this car but I'm not convinced that the CEL is on because of it. As I said, I still think it came on because of the additive I put in the car (the CEL came on a block away from the service station where I added the additive and then filled up with their highest octane gas).

I'm also wondering how I can drive this car with a CEL on for almost a thousand miles without missing a beat and getting 29 MPG (hand calculated). Although I do remember the 80's (the decade of the permanet CEL) lol

thanks again for your help

 

843de - yes that link is what I needed. I've changed plugs on V8 engines that defied logic, the worse one was on a 65 GTO I owned back in the 70's. I hated changing the plugs in that 389.....lol

Changing the plugs on the HHR should be easy. My big concern is the old plugs coming out easily (after 100,000 miles)

I think I should probably spray them with something (Wd-40) and let them set for awhile before removing them.

 

You can try giving your HHR a "Lobotomy" as we call it here. It's not drastic, just unhook the NEGATIVE battery cable for 30 minutes and have a cup of coffee. Depriving the onboard electronics of power for that length of time will clear any stored codes, plus it resets things to the factory default settings, like fuel trims. You'll notice your HHR will drive a bit differently for a day or two because it will be in "Learn Down" mode where it's adapting again to your driving style.

As to the plugs coming out, usually they'll come out fine, but remember that you need to be working on the engine when it's cold. Some techs use an old trick developed back in the days of the 2.3 Oldsmobile "Quad Four" engines. A few drops of PB Blaster around each plug, followed by a heat cycle or two(basically drive it, let it cool, drive it again, let it cool), will help the plugs spin right out.

If a particular plug really seems stuck, stop right there, then turn it back in. It may have carbon deposits that need to break off, the last thing you want is to have a plug come out accompanied by its threads. One of the dangers with an aluminum head.

Before I change plugs, I give the fuel system a dose of Chevron Techron Super Concentrated fuel system cleaner, then just to be safe I also do the PB Blaster trick. Never had a plug stick or come out hard. My '06 has been through three plug changes, both of my '07's have been through one plug change and no problems on any of them.

One note on the new Delco plugs, they come pregapped with sleeves over the electrode to protect them during shipment. So just examine them for damage, if you get one with an inconsistent gap, return it. Iridium plugs are almost impossible to regap without destroying them, the center electrode is micro fine and super fragile.

 

843de - a load of 'important' information in your last comment and "I do appreciate it."

As for disconnecting the negative cable - I've already tried that (at least something similar) I disconnected "both" negative/positive cables for 'all night.'

Didn't help anything - still had the starting problem and CEL came back on later on in the morning.

I will use the PB Blaster trick (thanks), but I'm going to say the $27 bottle of additive I've already put in the car will suffice, at least I hope so. Plus, the directions on changing the plugs are pretty clear and with your (very important) advice about the 'gap' and "not trying to regap" the plugs I should be ok. Heck, the last time I changed plugs myself I had to gap the new plugs (obviously it's been awhile lol).

Thanks again for your valuable insight.

 

A thought....

you said - "A few drops of PB Blaster around each plug, followed by a heat cycle or two(basically drive it, let it cool, drive it again, let it cool), will help the plugs spin right out."

So... I should take the boot off each plug - put a couple of drops in around the plug - put the boots back on - drive the car - let it cool - take the boots back off - put a couple of more drops in - put the boots back on - drive the car - let it cool - and then change the plugs?

does that last paragraph tell you volumes about me? lol

 

NO Bottle of stuff will cause your problem! NO bottle of stuff will fix your problem!

"Too lean" can mean EITHER too much air OR not enough fuel. It usually means too much air getting into the system somewhere between the MAF and the #1 O2 sensor i.e. a vacuum leak. My 2 times have proved to be the Purge Solenoid was open causing air from the gas tank to be introduced into the intake manifold.

The fuel pump and regulator are only first to check because it's the easiest, but the problem is at the very bottom of possibilities, because of occurrences and PITA + expense.

But go get your money back for the "diagnostic", you could get the codes read for free.

Please punch "P0171" without the quotes into Google and read a few of the links.
Here is a good one if you don't know how to Google: OBD-II DTC: P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1)

 

donbrew - purge solenoid checked good and flex pipe appears ok, no visable cracks, not a hint of an exhaust leak and looks fine.

thanks for the suggestions.