Starting Problems with 2008 HHR (2.2)
Back to post #28, just a few drops around each plug one time, then heat cycle it a couple of times. The heat cycles and capillary action will pull the PB Blaster into the threads, so only one application is needed.
Be sparing, a few drops is three or four, no need to drown 'em.
Be sparing, a few drops is three or four, no need to drown 'em.
One other thought, because this thread is centering around the HHR's terribly expensive fuel pump and integrated filter assembly.
If you're one of those folks who usually drives around with 1/4 of a tank or less, break that habit.
HHR fuel pumps are liquid cooled by the fuel in the tank, running around with a constantly low fuel level will cause the pump to overheat and fail prematurely.
The actual pumps themselves are very finely built rotary vane affairs with tight internal tolerances, so they generate heat which is carried away by the gasoline in the tank. Yup, gas as a coolant, perfectly safe and very common on new vehicles.
If you're one of those folks who usually drives around with 1/4 of a tank or less, break that habit.
HHR fuel pumps are liquid cooled by the fuel in the tank, running around with a constantly low fuel level will cause the pump to overheat and fail prematurely.
The actual pumps themselves are very finely built rotary vane affairs with tight internal tolerances, so they generate heat which is carried away by the gasoline in the tank. Yup, gas as a coolant, perfectly safe and very common on new vehicles.
843de - no... I'm one of those guys that 'fill it up' at the half way mark, so I'm ok there.
thanks for the clarification on the blaster. I've already done it this afternoon. I put a few drops on the plugs and have ran the car out for about 10 miles once and will run it out again before night - and change the plugs in the morning when the car is cold.
Checked the purge solenoid this afternoon, but it's fine, and the flex pipe appears to be in good shape, no cracks that I can see, no exhaust leaks at all - the car is quiet as a mouse (just like always). Actually this car has been 'trouble free' for nearly 100,000 miles so I'm not complaining.
The thing that really gets me about it - is that it runs "great" just like it's always run. Even when the CEL came on it ran (and still does) good. I've put over a 1000 miles on it since the CEL came on and checked my mileage twice (hand calculated) and am getting 29 mpg. I get on this thing and everything I can think of to see if it'll stumble but it doesn't.
I read online the other day (wish I could find it again but I can't) where there's a valve of some kind in the fuel pump that can cause a starting problem like I have. The guy who was talking about it said that his car had had this same problem for over a year and a Mechanic told him it was because of some valve incorporated within the fuel pump assy and that the car would probably run for a long time like that.
Do you any idea what he's talking about?
thanks for the clarification on the blaster. I've already done it this afternoon. I put a few drops on the plugs and have ran the car out for about 10 miles once and will run it out again before night - and change the plugs in the morning when the car is cold.
Checked the purge solenoid this afternoon, but it's fine, and the flex pipe appears to be in good shape, no cracks that I can see, no exhaust leaks at all - the car is quiet as a mouse (just like always). Actually this car has been 'trouble free' for nearly 100,000 miles so I'm not complaining.
The thing that really gets me about it - is that it runs "great" just like it's always run. Even when the CEL came on it ran (and still does) good. I've put over a 1000 miles on it since the CEL came on and checked my mileage twice (hand calculated) and am getting 29 mpg. I get on this thing and everything I can think of to see if it'll stumble but it doesn't.
I read online the other day (wish I could find it again but I can't) where there's a valve of some kind in the fuel pump that can cause a starting problem like I have. The guy who was talking about it said that his car had had this same problem for over a year and a Mechanic told him it was because of some valve incorporated within the fuel pump assy and that the car would probably run for a long time like that.
Do you any idea what he's talking about?
My 07 2.2 auto threw a P0171 code back in April I cleaned the MAF, disconnected and reconnected the battery. the code returned 750 miles later the flex pipe had split and cracked open , after changing out the flex pipe and cat con, I reset the computer again, the code has not returned in 18,000 miles now, so I'm confident it was the flex joint at fault
I watched a mechanic change out the pump in a Cobalt in 10 minutes and he was not rushing. But he had a lift and a trans jack.
Basic steps
1. use your gas up
2. remove the rubber hose to the fill tube
3. remove 2 bolts holding the straps
4. twist the old pump out
5. twist the new pump in
I have read that there was a wiring change at some point, so things may get a bit "head scratchy".
Basic steps
1. use your gas up
2. remove the rubber hose to the fill tube
3. remove 2 bolts holding the straps
4. twist the old pump out
5. twist the new pump in
I have read that there was a wiring change at some point, so things may get a bit "head scratchy".
Here something you can do in the mean time for you long crank time.
When you first go to start the car turn the ignition on without cranking the engine then off do this about three times. Then start the car. This maneuver will pump up the fuel rail and should help it start much faster.
This will not fix the cel light lean code but it will help confirm that the pump may not be holding rail pressure.
If you want to know for sure rent a fuel pressure gauge and post up you fuel pressure readings and we will help you decipher the reading on the gauge.
If you do this do not hook up the gauge with the engine running. I know this seems like common sense but have seen two different auto techs start an engine fire doing exactly that.
When you first go to start the car turn the ignition on without cranking the engine then off do this about three times. Then start the car. This maneuver will pump up the fuel rail and should help it start much faster.
This will not fix the cel light lean code but it will help confirm that the pump may not be holding rail pressure.
If you want to know for sure rent a fuel pressure gauge and post up you fuel pressure readings and we will help you decipher the reading on the gauge.
If you do this do not hook up the gauge with the engine running. I know this seems like common sense but have seen two different auto techs start an engine fire doing exactly that.
My 07 2.2 auto threw a P0171 code back in April I cleaned the MAF, disconnected and reconnected the battery. the code returned 750 miles later the flex pipe had split and cracked open , after changing out the flex pipe and cat con, I reset the computer again, the code has not returned in 18,000 miles now, so I'm confident it was the flex joint at fault
I plan to change my plugs in the morning, disconnect the battery for 30 min and see if my starting issue is solved (I don't have much hope but heck it's a shot) and see how long my CEL stays off.
If the plugs doesn't help me I'll clean the MAF and disconnect battery for 30 min and see what happens.
thanks for the info
Here something you can do in the mean time for you long crank time.
When you first go to start the car turn the ignition on without cranking the engine then off do this about three times. Then start the car. This maneuver will pump up the fuel rail and should help it start much faster.
This will not fix the cel light lean code but it will help confirm that the pump may not be holding rail pressure.
If you want to know for sure rent a fuel pressure gauge and post up you fuel pressure readings and we will help you decipher the reading on the gauge.
If you do this do not hook up the gauge with the engine running. I know this seems like common sense but have seen two different auto techs start an engine fire doing exactly that.
When you first go to start the car turn the ignition on without cranking the engine then off do this about three times. Then start the car. This maneuver will pump up the fuel rail and should help it start much faster.
This will not fix the cel light lean code but it will help confirm that the pump may not be holding rail pressure.
If you want to know for sure rent a fuel pressure gauge and post up you fuel pressure readings and we will help you decipher the reading on the gauge.
If you do this do not hook up the gauge with the engine running. I know this seems like common sense but have seen two different auto techs start an engine fire doing exactly that.


