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Starts with rough idle then revs up

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Old 05-14-2020, 12:14 PM
  #51  
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Get a new mechanic! The TB doesn’t require the dealership! Right , planetRJ, he just installed a new TB , plug and play.
if you have a 10 mm wrench and a flat blade screwdriver, remove the air filter box, unscrew the 4 bolts holding the TB to the intake manifold, and spray the throttle body cleaner in both sides of the throttle plate, DO NOT move the throttle plate, manually, the plastic gears are easily damaged. I do this every spring, because of the cold winter weather and idling to warm it up. It’s worth the effort if it fixes your issue, if not order a new TB we get a discount from RockAuto
or send a PM to hellshotrod, David is very knowledgeable and has over 300 HHR’s to part out. Great hobby!
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Old 05-14-2020, 01:13 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by PulpFriction
Any chance this is more likely when the car hasn’t been driven in a few days? That this is your dinghy-towing ride suggests it’s not a daily driver. Winter and an even slightly run-down battery virtually assures sulfating, and then it won’t hold a full charge. If it’s just one cell the voltage will drop to 10.5-11 volts which might start the car but the electronics go bonkers. Maybe when the the voltage comes up the problems abate. Maybe not....
Thanks very much for the suggestions and ideas. I did initially suspect the battery but on my last test with the fuel pressure gauge i also hooked a voltmeter to the battery. It was 12.5 volts prior to startup and then 14.5 volts during idle once the idle smoothed out. This is my tow-behind but I only just acquired it and have only put 300 miles on it myself. Got a good deal on it but it came with some issue to fix.
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Old 05-14-2020, 01:17 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Oldblue
Get a new mechanic! The TB doesn’t require the dealership! Right , planetRJ, he just installed a new TB , plug and play.
if you have a 10 mm wrench and a flat blade screwdriver, remove the air filter box, unscrew the 4 bolts holding the TB to the intake manifold, and spray the throttle body cleaner in both sides of the throttle plate, DO NOT move the throttle plate, manually, the plastic gears are easily damaged. I do this every spring, because of the cold winter weather and idling to warm it up. It’s worth the effort if it fixes your issue, if not order a new TB we get a discount from RockAuto
or send a PM to hellshotrod, David is very knowledgeable and has over 300 HHR’s to part out. Great hobby!
Thank Oldblue. I do think my mechanic was confused on that fact and I have since done some research and he was way off on the cost of a replacement too. Looks like they are not too awfully expensive and are easy to replace. I intend on checking all my wiring and plugs and connector as well as cleaning the contacts etc with some very good contact cleaner to see if anything improves. If not, then the next step will be replace TB and in that case i will contact hellshotrod first. Thanks for the guidance.
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Old 05-14-2020, 01:53 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by skysailor
On the phone he mentioned the possibility of a bad MAF or Idle Air Control valve. Well in reading here it seems that there is not an Idle Air Control valve on these engines (LT with 2.4L)
Does your "mechanic" know what he's talking about ?
These engines don't have Idle Control Valve.
That valve is controlled by the ECM to make a calibrated vacuum leak to adjust the idle on throttle body or early TPI (Tune Port Injection} systems.
Picture of the valve.

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Old 05-14-2020, 05:53 PM
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Yeah, he realized that after he looked under the hood! :) I still rely on him...he sees A LOT of autos....very popular and busy so I am not going to hold this against him :) He has always steered me right and not made money off me when others could have. Anyhow, the collective knowledge here on this forum is priceless and I will certainly take all advice seriously and I will report back when I take an action and get a result!
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Old 05-17-2020, 06:24 PM
  #56  
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Well, I tyried a number of things to see if I could solve the problem but nothing has worked so far. I pulled and cleaned the MAP sensor, pulled the Throttle Body and thoroughly cleaned both side of the plate and throat, pulled various connectors and cleaned the contacts. All to no avail. So I found this web site that offers a programmed ECM and a return policy if problem is not resolved: https://arestechnologies.com/ So for $95 plus shipping I have one on the way and I will see if it resolves my issue. If not, will send it back and continue the quest. It's not a huge problem (at the moment) but I would like to identify and fix the faulty part. Anyone dealt with this outfit? Guess i should have asked before plunking down $95+ but ... oh well. :)
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Old 05-18-2020, 07:42 AM
  #57  
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Keep us posted!
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Old 05-20-2020, 03:14 PM
  #58  
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New ECM received. Disconnected battery negative and swapped ECM's. Reconnected neg cable to battery and break the tightening mechanism. But holds tight enough. Hook battery charger up to make sure full charge. Start engine. Get same stumbling/stall/rev up and finally proper idle as before. Try again with all spare keys to make sure haven't lost key codes. Send email to Ares Technologies to request return authorization due to no fixing my problem. Receive a quick reply - No problem, that's why we have a 30=day return policy. Here is your RMA.." Now have a new throttle body on order as well as a new battery cable. Will provide updates.
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Old 05-20-2020, 06:53 PM
  #59  
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Progress, at least you have confirmed, it ain’t the ECM
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Old 05-21-2020, 05:24 PM
  #60  
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Yes, that the good news as it were! :) Anyhow, this is what I have on order:

Fuel Injection Throttle Body Assembly ACDelco GM Original Equipment 12694871

My question while waiting for its arrival is why are there so many part numbers for this TB? When I was searching for one I found what seemed to be dozens of them all with different part numbers. I opted to go with the original part number to be safe but are all those out there compatible with this engine? Just wondering while I am waiting for the mail :)
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