When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Problems/Service/RepairsIf you have a problem with your HHR, want a tip on repairing or performing a particular service to you HHR here is the place to post!
Part numbers get superseded when there are any variations or inventory runs out from one supplier and a new one from another supplier is sourced, it might be from a different model with something slightly different. As long as it fits and works, awesome!
Well...the new battery cable and throttle body are installed and working but....same problem at start-up though. What is left? Mechanic says does not seem like a vacuum leak as it would do it all the time not just on start-up and then settle down. All I can think of is O2 sensor but that surely would cause a CEL? Or maybe the Evap Purge Solenoid? I pulled the purge solenoid a few weeks back and cleaned/checked it for proper operation with 12 volts and blowing through it but I don't have a pressure gauge so perhaps it's leaking on start-up and then seals? Help? :)
You still can't find anyone who will try, to see if there are any pending codes? Although, with as many occurrences as you've had, I would think that codes would not be only pending any more, but would have lit the CEL by now.
Shot in the dark, is the AC/defrost/recirculation on when it has trouble idling?
Well , let’s see now, just a hunch and yes if if off a tooth it should throw a code, but it’s not a hard job to pop off the valve cover and inspect for a loose timing chain. My 2011 did set a P0014 code , but was running like crap well before the code appeared.
I will be taking the auto to a mechanic that says he can check codes while running etc. But before I am able to do that I continue the shotgun approach because ..well...nothing else to do ! :) And, Thank You for the continued input of ideas.
So to answer the other previous question(s) :
The AC/defrost/re-circulation is in the normal "non-re-circulation" setting and the AC is "Off"
The engine runs fine in all other conditions. The problem manifests as follows: 1) Start, 2) runs normal high idle for about 2 - 3 seconds, 3) settles into a rough "just above stall" idle, 4) Sometimes stalls otherwise idles rough for about 5 to 10 seconds, 5) Then runs smooth and accelerates to about 2000 RPM, 6) Immediately settles down to about 1000 RPM and slowly idles down to normal 700-800 RPM. All is fine after that demonstration of weird activity.
I am convinced this must be an intermittent failure of a sensor but am running out of candidates. Have a new MAP sensor coming tomorrow. Will advise outcome and remain open to suggestions. Regarding the loose timing chain possibility. All I can say is that after it goes through this series of events it runs fine so would think that would eliminate it as a source. Or am I wrong? If it was a timing chain issue I think that would put me in the hand over to mechanic category :)
OH, also since I had to replace the battery cable today I guess any pending codes would have been cleared so will have to run and drive a bit before taking it in to see if any pending codes are set. Yes?
A dirty or failing camshaft solenoid would also be suspect, but would also cause a code.
I’m just spitballing, here , I wish the car was closer and the border was open, I have other ideas of what to test, for instance the fuel pump pressure might be in the low side. That also would present a code!
A dirty or failing camshaft solenoid would also be suspect, but would also cause a code.
I’m just spitballing, here , I wish the car was closer and the border was open, I have other ideas of what to test, for instance the fuel pump pressure might be in the low side. That also would present a code!
Thanks Oldblue. Both VVT Solenoids were replaced prior to my purchase. And I did recently check the fuel pump pressure and it was in spec.
New MAP sensor. No better. Will drive like crazy as soon as possible to see if it generates any codes but not hopeful at this stage. It just seems like some other "remaining" sensor is sending incorrect info to the ECM for a few secs to half a minute upon start-up and then kicks in with the proper data. I will have a nice troubleshooting kit to sell when this is over, if ever. I now have a good used: Throttle Body, MAF sensor and MAP sensor, so far :)
No offense, but instead of guessing and just throwing parts at it (and wasting a bunch of $), why not buy a code reader ?
Even an app for your phone and wireless dongle will read codes. I have the Torque app on 2 phones that will read and clear codes.
05-22-2020, 07:10 AM
