fastsuv

From your description it sounds like it's only happening with power changes (letting off accelerator, shifting between gears).

Also you are saying the car moves a lot but the steering wheel only moves a little. That means the car is steering the wheels independently of the steering system.

You seem to have replaced most of the parts that usually need replacing. I have had all those parts go bad at one time or another, but I never had the car suddenly veer off to one side and then go back hard. Even with a badly worn lower control arm bushing (I could roll the wheel forward and back a few inches without the car moving) I only noticed it off the line as the steering wheel would slightly jerk to one side.

I would look for unusual things, like engine cradle bolts broken, cradle frame weld busted or stuff like that. You might think it would be obvious to find, but under the load of the car weight it might not show up as bad. Get it on a lift and check everything.

Steve

C-rad

Thanks Steve, I'll check the mounts again.

When the problem first started it was definitely on start up but, now it's not. I'll just be driving in 5th gear and the car just starts swaying. It's not a constant sway its intermittent but, intense.

fastsuv

Just to clarify, I'm not talking about the actual engine and transmission mounts that attach to the engine and transmission.

I mean the 4 big bolts at the corners of the cradle under the engine and transmission. The front 2 are hidden under some of the plastic splash shields inside the fender well. These bolts go straight up from below.

Steve

donbrew

You don't think the ABS light means something? Do you know how ABS/ESC works?
If the ABS light is on there are ABS codes that can be read.

Sound like what is going on is that the car is sensing one wheel is turning at a different rate than the others and is trying to compensate. This is usually caused by a bad wheel speed sensor.

C-rad

Steve, thanks for clarifying. I'll take a look at them.

C-rad

I did have the codes on the ABS read a while back and I can't remember what the codes were but, the shop I had read them said it was most likely metal shavings in the hub assembly setting it off. I replaced the front hub assemblies but, like I said, the rear have not been replaced yet. I figured that was why the light was still on.

Cat Man HHR

Your ABS light should have gone off when you did the hub problem. If it's still on do what Don has said. Look into that problem. Or like backwoods people do, put tape over the light and the problem is fixed.
Yes, look at all your engine mounts also. Torque of the engine can steer the car.

C-rad

I'll look into the ABS again.

Will the torque cause that sway to happen even if the car is not accelerating or decelerating? It seems to happen mostly while at a steady speed.

I forgot to mention, it happens real bad if I hit a dip or heave in the road taking the weight off and back on the front end.

donbrew

OK; the shop says the problem is the hub, you replace the hubs, light still on, you think the light does not mean anything?

The codes will at least tell which wheel is the problem. That is really all they do, additional info from them tells if it is shorted or open.

C-rad

I'll take a look at the ABS light again when I get home.

I haven't stopped anywhere to gave the codes cleared yet.