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What finally fixed your P2135 code?

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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 01:01 AM
  #11  
Maven's Avatar
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Joined: 11-16-2008
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From: NJ
dont crimp anything. you need the proper $100 crimper to do it right first of all and secondly, soldering the terminals, and simply lubing them with some Nye760G or GM dielectric grease that comes in tub (NOT in tube...the lube is paramount) will solve 95% of all P2135 codes related to wiring issues, about 4% of them will actually require new ECM terminals, and the remaining 1 in 100 actually has a broken wire in the harness.
Old Oct 11, 2011 | 09:34 PM
  #12  
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Joined: 01-27-2011
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From: Georgia
Rats! problem returned after 9000 miles. Of course it was the night before my wife needed to make a 1000+ mile trip. I pulled the harnesses off the computer and did the spray down with WD-40 and blast with air hose since that worked last time. She made the trip without a glitch and it has gone about 1200 miles since then. Hmmm.

Maven, I am confused by your post. Are you saying the TSB that GM put out on this year vehicle is not valid info? That their solution of re-crimping the connections is not the correct repair process? Why?
Old Oct 12, 2011 | 10:39 PM
  #13  
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I think what he means is that any attempt to re-crimp the terminals without the correct ($$$) tool will only make the problem worse, not better.

I too suffered with the issue, only mine was under warranty, and after multiple trips to the dealership, they finally got it fixed.

If my problem reoccurs out of warranty, I will be pulling the harness apart and soldering the offending pins instead of trying to tighten the factory crimps. It's obvious the amount of harness slack / strain relief is not properly designed from the factory, so adding the solder should help make the repair last a little longer.
Old Oct 13, 2011 | 06:30 AM
  #14  
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Joined: 04-16-2011
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From: North central Indiana
I was wandering about the amount of water under your hood. You live in Georgia, have you noticed this during rainy time , car washes, or does it matter? Seems you have more problem during wet times. Wires when warm stretch and when cold shrink as to water on harness vibration combination is finding that extra inch of slack. Moving the harness where it has room to move. These wires pulling out , contact area, you need just a little slack somewhere. During assembly someone might have put a little extra twist on yours when it went down the line. Body movement when it was spot welded or a hole missed placed for the harness mounting. GM low bid harness down to inches when it comes to copper cost. So the harness was made to exact length with no inches extra.
When they made the harness crimping is the same on all wires, so it has to be short to pull out. Vibration, hot, cold, and water is things that are constant in the problem. You can always cut the wire and splice and solder a longer wire into it. I think the pin is being pulled out from being to short. Just my input over the years from working with wires. Contact area(corrosion) vibration, water, hot cold .
Old Oct 14, 2011 | 09:51 PM
  #15  
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From: Georgia
interrex, thanks for the suggestions but it has been powder dry here in Georgia for weeks. We have been having serious drought in this region. The harness does not seem short or tight (at least to me) and the temps here have been consistently hot for many months.

We tracked the issue closely when it was occurring more frequently and there seemed to be no correlation to anything temperature or weather related. It did seem to happen most frequently during the 1-2 up shift or sometimes when decelerating to corner. But then the pattern went away and it became completely random.
Old Oct 14, 2011 | 09:57 PM
  #16  
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From: Georgia
Originally Posted by jonathanm
I think what he means is that any attempt to re-crimp the terminals without the correct ($$$) tool will only make the problem worse, not better.

I too suffered with the issue, only mine was under warranty, and after multiple trips to the dealership, they finally got it fixed.

If my problem reoccurs out of warranty, I will be pulling the harness apart and soldering the offending pins instead of trying to tighten the factory crimps. It's obvious the amount of harness slack / strain relief is not properly designed from the factory, so adding the solder should help make the repair last a little longer.
Why did it take them so many attempts to fix it and what did they do that did and didn't work?
Old Nov 20, 2011 | 06:59 PM
  #17  
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Joined: 07-10-2010
Posts: 1
From: LONG ISLAND ,N.Y.
Have a 06 ls today while driving the reduced power message came on then the engine shut down message ,my car shut down and now it wont crank over .the only thing i did prior to this was change my air filter any ideas
Old Nov 20, 2011 | 10:47 PM
  #18  
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Joined: 04-09-2006
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From: Vancouver, BC, Canada
My first thought was that the MAPS sensor wasn't replugged properly, but I don't think that would explain the engine not cranking.

Dealer.
Old Dec 6, 2011 | 04:32 PM
  #19  
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Joined: 10-15-2010
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From: pennsville NJ
my HHR actually DID reduce power while going up the Del. Mem. bridge. It had also indicated low oil life prior to this. I was told that the computer is programed for 3,000 mile oil change. I use synthetic for 10,000 and i was at 7,000=. So I changed oil/filter and reset oil life and it was fine. This was a few months ago. Last week had just gone over 3,500 miles with this change, oil life said 65% and then reduced power light came on and power was reduced, pedal to the floor and maybe 45-50 mph? Reset oil life and it was fine. Not a mechanic and don't have a code but this seemed to solve problem.
Old Dec 6, 2011 | 04:58 PM
  #20  
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Joined: 06-26-2006
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From: San Bernardino, California
Originally Posted by wingwiper
I was told that the computer is programed for 3,000 mile oil change.
Who told you that? I usually change the oil when the oil life is below 5%. Our 06 has been over 7000 miles between oil changes a few times and it never went into 'limp mode'.



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