donbrew

But, next time use electrical contact cleaner, WD40 could cause a problem (and there is a product made for the very problem, don't use a butter knife when a screwdriver is available). And then put dielectric goop on it.

63falcondriver

Not sure what kind of problem WD-40 could cause in that usage application as it was originally developed for similar situations.

What kind of dielectric goop do you recommend? Something like Dow Corning 4? I have that around but usually just use it on aircraft oil filter gaskets.

The problem thankfully has not reoccurred since my previous post.

lainix

I'm having the same problem, is there a walk through, or a recommended service book for the HHR i'd like to try and clean the contacts before i have to pay 350 because it isnt covered under the warranty.
I had this Issue before and it was covered i guess they don't cover work they have already done.

63falcondriver

There is a TSB on this issue for harness issues but it turns out my problem seemed to be the connection of the plugs going to the computers. I would remove them and spray them with WD-40 and put them back together and the problem would go away. Then sometimes some time later it would re occur. The last time I sprayed the contacts all down and put em back together seems to have worked pretty well as I have driven the vehicle many thousands of miles and it hasn't reoccured. The car has about 89,000 miles on it now. I am having a different issue with a cyl 2 misfire code that has been coming and going for the last 10,000 miles. Hoping to chase that down next. I have eliminated a few possibilities so far. The dealer thinks it could be a sticking valve. (I guess they have had to change a few cylinder heads.) I sure hope it doesn't require a head replacement, even if it is covered under the extended warranty because that is a very invasive repair. I need to drive it on a 1,600 mile trip this week so not sure they can investigate it in the window of time I have.

63falcondriver

Update on 2135 code issue: The previously mentioned misfire code turned out to be a bad cylinder head (supposedly defective or burned valve seat, I didn't see the removed parts) It was covered under the 100,000 drive train warranty and they provided a rental to do our out of town trip in. Glad for that but unhappy that an engine with mileage in the 80 thousand range would need a cylinder head.

Anyway, the 2135 code and reduced engine power reoccurred. the engine now has 102,000 on it. Since it went nearly 40,000 miles since the last occurrence, I did what I did before in that I hosed the connections to the computer with WD-40 and blasted them with compressed air. This time I applied dielectric grease and put it back together. Have about 150 miles on it without a glitch. This happened shortly after I changed the oil and went through the full pedal travel oscillations to reset the mileage computer. So I am wondering if the pedal rheostat itself is bad. Hope not. Anyway, I am taking the car on a 1,500 mile trip in the morning so will discover it soon.

Overall, I am happy with the car. Disconcerted by the early engine problems. I got 90,000 miles out of the oem tires. Changed the front brakes at 102,000. I inspected the rear drums and they should be good for another 15,000 miles or so. I had a bit of rotor runout feel in the brake pedal and turned both front rotors. One I had to do twice because it was worse after the first cutting. It's all smooth now. I have not had any of the other issues such as key not turning off car, suspension clunking, etc. I have not had to do any other replacement of parts other than the headlight bulbs. One went 90,000 and the other went 100,000.

63falcondriver

Problem keeps reoccurring. Went a couple hundred miles on our trip and then the CEL would come on when we hit a bump on the interstate. Still seems to be a wiring/connection issue. I guess I will have to get under there and start wiggling wires while someone watches for a tripped code in the ****pit. We made it back ok but had to plug in the scanner several times to make the light go out.

63falcondriver

Grrr! Problem worse than ever now. Today it not only threw the 2135 code but also its friends P0121, P1516, P2101.

All of these reference the same system of issues between the throttle, throttle actuator, control module and so forth. I think it is all the same problem.

What I do have now is another HHR of the same year and with the same engine. I am going to try to play some musical parts and see if I can move the trouble from one vehicle to the other.

I am starting today with the throttle valve/control. This 2135 code with the associated reduced engine power has been the primary frustration with this vehicle. It has over 106000 miles on it now and we have had no issues other than this. (I did a brake job on the front and replaced one warped rotor and machined the other one.)

I will report back if I find the problem (or if I don't)

donbrew

Did you ever check the under hood fuse box? A TSB talks about a condition where the top half of the box (the fuse holder part) comes loose from the bottom half (contact blades to the actual harness).

There is also a TSB that talks about replacing the entire harness from ECM to the Throttle Control. (just that portion of the wiring) basically splice into the wires at the ECM, run a short set of wires to the throttle with either a new connector or chop the old one off and use it. Abandoning the wires in place. I think that's the "chafing" one, but may do the trick.

But, the ECM may just need replacing. They are not real expensive, especially used ones, but I think requires a TechII scanner to re-install. I will look at Mitchell OnDemand and update in a few minutes.

I came up with a very complex answer. Too much for here.

donbrew

I just did some more poking around in Mitchell. It seems to say you need a new Throttle Actuator Control and/or ECM.

cjjr

Hi all, new to the forum. But I had the same problem,(2008 2.2) my son looked at it when we were in Colorado(he is a GM mechanic)we live in Illinois, put a throttle body in it. Went about 3 months and it did it again, several times, finally he told me about the wire re-crimp to the connector at the ECM that was on a service bullitin, said it was worth a try. I had a crimping tool for the wire size in the plug, so I went at it, that was last September and has not happened again. I found that there were several terminals that you could feel that you had crimped it tighter when doing it. You do need the right size tool for the job and take your time, the connector from the engine to the ECM had over 70 wires!! Do them ONE AT A TIME so as to get them back in the right place!! Put it can be done. But too, I have done a fare amount of work with networks and different connectors to computers.(as a hobby)

Hope this HELPS!