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What finally fixed your P2135 code?

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Old 03-27-2014, 10:24 AM
  #41  
 
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[QUOTE=Hampstar7;731400]I took the throttle body off and cleaned it inside and out. Then inspected each individual wire, including cleaning the ground. When doing this, I took each wire out from the terminal end, and gently pulled it. Then I checked the whole length of each wire for damage. I did not find anything wrong with it, so I put it all back together. I haven't got the warning in the last two weeks, so at least I located the problem area. I'm sure it will show up again, but at least it's a temporary fix.



It came back and and I could barely get out of the driveway without it going into limp mode. So I broke down and finally took it to the dealer. $633 later and it is running like it should, and hopefully it is a permanent fix. They concluded that the actuator was faulty so they replaced the throttle body, then they updated/reprogrammed the ECM. I will post again if I run into more issues.
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Old 06-18-2014, 10:06 PM
  #42  
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Update: My HHR has been behaving itself lately. I just got back from a lengthy trip (over 7000 miles) and no hiccups. The vehicle now has 137,000 miles on it. It will need new rear brakes soon. (I have a set ready to install when the other ones wear out). Front brakes were replaced previously.
Maintenance required since new has been
1. front brake pads and machine rotors
2. replace battery (failed abruptly)
3. one wiper blade
4. routine oil changes.
5. cylinder head replacement due to burned valve seat. (covered under drive train warranty)
6. replace tires

If it wasn't for the 2135 codes the vehicle throws randomly, it would be considered a pretty good vehicle. Note, other than dinking with it, no parts have been changed related to the codes as I've been able to "fix" it by unplugging and plugging back in the connector to the ecm/pcm.
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Old 09-01-2014, 12:51 AM
  #43  
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Update

Car mileage is now just over 145,000. Still on the original rear brakes. 2135 code has been keeping its head below ground. Been kicking around the idea of replacing the vehicle but can't come up with anything that has the versatility and economy of this car so we'll just keep driving it for now. Doesn't use oil and still drives tight so forward ho!
The only frustrating issue we've had in the past year is that the keyless entry system does not work at all anymore. We may check into getting this resolved but suspect it will be more expense than we're willing to put into the vehicle for the purpose. Very inconvenient to have to unlock the single door access lock every time.
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Old 09-01-2014, 12:10 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by 63falcondriver
The only frustrating issue we've had in the past year is that the keyless entry system does not work at all anymore. We may check into getting this resolved but suspect it will be more expense than we're willing to put into the vehicle for the purpose. Very inconvenient to have to unlock the single door access lock every time.
Did you check the battery cage in your remote? Or the key pad? Or the battery itself?

Try a search, the "keyfob" problems are hugely documented on this site.

Most solutions are under $100, many under $20 depends on what's broke.
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Old 09-01-2014, 01:42 PM
  #45  
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I am glad you have apparently fixed your reduced power code problem. I plan on running my 2009 HHR to 150,000 miles, if at all possible. I bought it on 8/29/2014 with 38,647 miles & GM certified w/warranty, built in 11/08 and sold on 7/24/2009, after GM reorganized from their bankruptcy. I am a retired electrician from Chrysler and I have repaired more wiring gremlins than you can imagine. Perseverance, trial and error, testing and parts swapping and good eyes is needed to find intermittent bad wiring connections.
In the plant, we used to program in something called a trap, that set a fault whenever we suspected a contact, coil or device was making a fault. Sometimes it lasted only a few milliseconds, so regular trouble shooting would never find the offending device or contact, as it always tested normal. When downtime cost $5000/minute you had to find the problems.
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Old 10-22-2015, 10:13 PM
  #46  
 
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Found fix for P2135 code with limp home mode...I had that code on my 2008 2.4 liter HHR and so being in electrical I decided to do a "case learn" where you sinc the accelerator pedal and throttle body and I centered the steering column and my code went away and hasn't come back in 6,000 miles so far. This fix cost me $0 because I had access to a TECH2 Scanner.
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Old 03-04-2016, 12:45 PM
  #47  
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Pip4549A
#PIP4549A: Various Intermittent DTCs Or Electrical / Communication Concerns - keywords bare battery bracket CEL chaff circuit class2 connection controls crank data DTC ECM engine ground harness high intermittent - (Jan 5, 2009)


Subject: Various Intermittent DTC's or Electrical/Communication Concerns


Models: 2005-2009 Chevrolet Cobalt SS

2005-2009 Chevrolet Cobalt

2006-2009 Chevrolet HHR

2008-2009 Chevrolet HHR SS

2008-2009 Chevrolet Malibu

2007-2009 Pontiac G5

2008-2009 Pontiac G6

2005-2009 Pontiac Pursuit (Canada Only)

2007-2009 Saturn Aura

2005-2007 Saturn Ion

2004-2007 Saturn Ion Redline

2002-2009 Saturn Vue

With any of the following ECOTEC engines:

2.0L Engine (RPO LSJ/LNF)

2.2L Engine (RPO L61/LAP)

2.4L Engine (RPO LE5/LE9/LAT)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
A technician may comment of intermittent CEL, DTC's or No communication with various modules. This may be caused by a short to ground of the vehicle wiring in the engine harness.


Recommendation/Instructions:
The harness may chaff in the area of the Canister Purge Solenoid attachment bracket, causing an intermittent shorting to ground. The harness routing forces the harness into the edge of the bracket. This bracket is present with any Ecotec engine. The Purge Solenoid bracket may have a sharp edge from the manufacturing/shearing operation. If any DTCs are setting consistently, perform the eSI diagnostics and repair as necessary. If the eSI diagnostics do not isolate the concern, inspect the engine harness for potential shorts to ground at the EVAP purge valve bracket on the side of the cylinder head. Then repair and reposition the circuits/harness as necessary.

Note: To prevent future chaffing remove the sharp edge from the purge solenoid bracket and add conduit to the engine harness at the ECM and Purge Solenoid harness breakout.

Name: chaff.gif Views: 9057 Size: 64.5 KB

This PI applies to all DTCs Listed below:

P0326 P0335 P060E P0561 P0651 P2120 P2122 P2123 P2125 P2127 P2128 P2135 P2138 U1863 U1886 U1899 U2105 U2106 U2107 U2143
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Last edited by ChevyMgr; 06-03-2009 at 10:35 AM. Reason: added Codes
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Old 07-08-2016, 09:00 PM
  #48  
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This 2135 problem hasn't shown up for a long time now. It never was related to any "parts" but seemed to be continuity issues in the harness itself.
I'm over 190,000 miles now and it hasn't gone into limp mode for the past 50,000 miles.
This car has required very few repairs, especially considering how many miles are on it. I'm thinking about changing the spark plugs as they have at least 100,000 miles on them and that's assuming they replaced them when the cylinder head got changed, but I don't know that. Mostly just oil changes, tires and brakes.

Last edited by 63falcondriver; 07-18-2016 at 08:56 PM.
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Old 07-18-2016, 08:55 PM
  #49  
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So I did install new iridium plugs, cleaned the air filter and housing, cleaned the throttle body, rotated the tires, changed the oil/filter and checked the back brakes for condition. Leaving tomorrow night on a trip that will total about 2500 miles over the next couple weeks. I'm wondering about the serpentine belt. I've never put one of those on. May be good to at least carry one along. I really want to avoid a breakdown far from home. Especially since we tend to travel at night.
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Old 07-19-2016, 11:14 AM
  #50  
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If you are skeptical about the belt I would just change it now or have someone change it. Better safe than sorry.
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