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I recently replaced my "wheel wrench" with a 4 ended wrench from home depot that does a much better job. I replaced it after the tire ship mounted my new tires and wheels and I broke the factory wheel wrench trying to get the lugs loosened. I don't know how tight the shop torqued down the lugs, but the wrench didn't hold up at all.
The rim is the "outer edge of a wheel, holding the tire".[1] It makes up the outer circular design of the wheel on which the inside edge of the tire is mounted on vehicles such as automobiles. For example, on a bicycle wheel the rim is a large hoop attached to the outer ends of the spokes of the wheel that holds the tire and tube. The term rim is also used non-technically to refer to the entire wheel, or even to a tire.
And this the wheel
A wheel is a circular component that is intended to rotate on an axle bearing. The wheel is one of the key components of the wheel and axle which is one of the six simple machines. Wikipedia
30, I’ve got underwear older then that!! I have a grin every time, I see a millennial with 20’s or 22’s on their ride and have to slow to a crawl to get over train tracks or a speed bump. And the rims are clearly damaged. I like to run some rubber between the wheel and the asphalt, I’ve contemplated going to 18’s and those 14” brakes from ZZP up front and 12 inch Brembos out back , but can’t justify that expense on a 10 year old 250,000 + miles HHR.
I’ve also kicked around an Air Lift or Ride Tech air suspension system, and a new 2.4 block with 2.2 head portedand polished, but alas, a tune would be required and the funding for such fun projects is a little tight.
So, it’s wheels from here on out, not rims.
Tire shops will normally tighten wheel nuts to 100ft/lbs.
I have a 30" breaker bar and a torque wrench in the back hatch for changing wheels.
Get a 3/4" deep socket with 3/8" drive and you'll be all set.
Tire shops will normally tighten wheel nuts to 100ft/lbs.
I have a 30" breaker bar and a torque wrench in the back hatch for changing wheels.
Get a 3/4" deep socket with 3/8" drive and you'll be all set.
Clare
Don't we wish. All the shops I've ever been to it's impact off, impact on.
3/8" drive ? I sure hope you meant 1/2". I use a 20 inch long, 1/2" drive torque wrench with a coated deep well impact socket.. No need for a breaker bar if the wheels were installed at the correct 100 ft/lbs.
I just have a good old 4 way tire iron that I keep in the back for such occasions. Also, I agree with Oldblue, having some rubber in between the WHEEL and road is nice, also much safer and much less likely of any sort of catastrophic blowout.
Tire shops normally go through a charade of looking up the correct torque spec for the car in question.
Unfortunately, actually doing it is left to the kid in the service bay; most of them think the torque-stik is infallible and get no training on it's use and care anyway.
I always get a chuckle watching the clowns at NTB have the second technician "check the torque" by applying the torque wrench to the already tightened lugs. I guess they think the torque wrench knows something.
When I was a tire jockey, in the dark ages before disc brakes, we did not have a torque wrench or torque-stik in the shop. If one of those fancy new fangled cars came in we had to get the mechanic to use his torque wrench (yeah, right). I personally have been responsible for a few cross threaded studs from throwing the nut into the driver then powering it on with whatever power the industrial strength air hammer could provide.
Don't we wish. All the shops I've ever been to it's impact off, impact on.
