2010 SS: P0299 and more...
Thanks very much, RJ!
I put the parts back together yesterday and drove it around town for errands yesterday (had ONE night off) - first time I drove it around town! (haven't driven it since arriving home from Oklahoma) Fun car to drive, even if the turbo only boosts at 1.8lbs max! Hah.
I bought MAF cleaner and some wiring parts so I can do my "next steps" in the next few days. And I think a buddy of mine has a Tech2 - maybe I can verify the function of that bypass solenoid with it (like the CSS link indicated).
Will keep y'all updated - thanks again!
I put the parts back together yesterday and drove it around town for errands yesterday (had ONE night off) - first time I drove it around town! (haven't driven it since arriving home from Oklahoma) Fun car to drive, even if the turbo only boosts at 1.8lbs max! Hah.
I bought MAF cleaner and some wiring parts so I can do my "next steps" in the next few days. And I think a buddy of mine has a Tech2 - maybe I can verify the function of that bypass solenoid with it (like the CSS link indicated).
Will keep y'all updated - thanks again!
Just a quick update on the still-not-fixed SS (I've had very limited time) --
1. As I looked closely at the wiring harness, it seemed as though none of the wires were related to the MAP sensor (upper or lower)... just a/c compressor, starter, etc. Since those wires were so difficult to get to, I decided to leave them alone for now.
2. As I re-read the posts in this thread, it seemed like replacing the MAF sensor might make sense since the codes refer to intake temps AND mass air flow sensor. I also hoped to try it before my Mechanic Appointment on the 24th. So I installed a new AC-Delco MAF sensor, disconnected the negative battery terminal for 30+ minutes, and tried her out. No silver bullet there. Sigh. Perhaps bad connectors, but no wires are falling out.
3. No time to buy a multimeter - I'll have to let (pay) the shop do that kind of testing if called for
By the way - is it normal for the engine to run super-rough after reconnecting the battery? Both times I've disconnected it in the last 9 days, it takes a good 3 to 5 minutes to be able to idle smoothly. And this evening on the post-MAF replacement test drive, it died upon deceleration or just stayed at idle (even with gas pedal being stepped on). I turned off the ignition and upon restart seemed to return to its baseline again until the next deceleration (for a turn, for example). The boost DID almost double for the first minute on this test drive (all the way to 3lbs!) - but then resumed to its baseline 1.7 max.
Eh - no need to pour a lot more guesswork into this since I'm taking her in Tuesday for the Wednesday appointment... just thought I'd fill y'all in since I hadn't given any updates lately.
1. As I looked closely at the wiring harness, it seemed as though none of the wires were related to the MAP sensor (upper or lower)... just a/c compressor, starter, etc. Since those wires were so difficult to get to, I decided to leave them alone for now.
2. As I re-read the posts in this thread, it seemed like replacing the MAF sensor might make sense since the codes refer to intake temps AND mass air flow sensor. I also hoped to try it before my Mechanic Appointment on the 24th. So I installed a new AC-Delco MAF sensor, disconnected the negative battery terminal for 30+ minutes, and tried her out. No silver bullet there. Sigh. Perhaps bad connectors, but no wires are falling out.
3. No time to buy a multimeter - I'll have to let (pay) the shop do that kind of testing if called for
By the way - is it normal for the engine to run super-rough after reconnecting the battery? Both times I've disconnected it in the last 9 days, it takes a good 3 to 5 minutes to be able to idle smoothly. And this evening on the post-MAF replacement test drive, it died upon deceleration or just stayed at idle (even with gas pedal being stepped on). I turned off the ignition and upon restart seemed to return to its baseline again until the next deceleration (for a turn, for example). The boost DID almost double for the first minute on this test drive (all the way to 3lbs!) - but then resumed to its baseline 1.7 max.
Eh - no need to pour a lot more guesswork into this since I'm taking her in Tuesday for the Wednesday appointment... just thought I'd fill y'all in since I hadn't given any updates lately.
Thanks Gentlemen!
I took it in today (a day early) because snow is likely overnight and I didn't want to risk me not being able to get there.
By 4:30 they got to it and called with the news: before completing the smoke-test hookup, they spotted a looooong crack up the intercooler output pipe!
Don't know how I missed it, but happy it's simple! They said it'd be $260 total ($160 for the part if they could get Chevy dealer to answer phone) - but also offered to let me find a metal one or source my own if I wanted to. Said labor might be less than $100 because it looked like it might be easy. Seems like these guys are trustworthy (they do have that reputation).
So tonight during my 3am downtime at work I'll search our trusty HHR forums for good choices!
Again - many thanks, and I'll certainly update y'all again.
I took it in today (a day early) because snow is likely overnight and I didn't want to risk me not being able to get there.
By 4:30 they got to it and called with the news: before completing the smoke-test hookup, they spotted a looooong crack up the intercooler output pipe!
Don't know how I missed it, but happy it's simple! They said it'd be $260 total ($160 for the part if they could get Chevy dealer to answer phone) - but also offered to let me find a metal one or source my own if I wanted to. Said labor might be less than $100 because it looked like it might be easy. Seems like these guys are trustworthy (they do have that reputation).
So tonight during my 3am downtime at work I'll search our trusty HHR forums for good choices!
Again - many thanks, and I'll certainly update y'all again.
Thanks Dr. Loch and OldBlue!
...I read and read and read last night for insight on the "intercooler outlet pipe" upgrades, but the only conclusion is: the factory part is $115 at best (online, shipped) but it's a known poor-design. So it sure makes sense to go with a metal upgrade.
OldBlue's link is for an entire set - I only want the lower (cold side) pipe. I found a couple last night, but I can't tell for sure if they include the MAP sensor mounting ... I don't want to do any modifications/alterations to the part.
Efforts continue tonight!
...I read and read and read last night for insight on the "intercooler outlet pipe" upgrades, but the only conclusion is: the factory part is $115 at best (online, shipped) but it's a known poor-design. So it sure makes sense to go with a metal upgrade.
OldBlue's link is for an entire set - I only want the lower (cold side) pipe. I found a couple last night, but I can't tell for sure if they include the MAP sensor mounting ... I don't want to do any modifications/alterations to the part.
Efforts continue tonight!


