I apologize as I started a post in the wrong section yesterday. I have more information today. My SS has thrown the CEL, and I have power loss. It was feeling like I had turbo lag off the line just taking off normal it felt slightly sluggish as apposed to the normal zippy feel. Of course if you half way step on it gathers boost and takes off. If you had never driven an SS before you likely would not even know anything was wrong. Normally on dry pavement at 20 mph or perhaps more, I can flog it and it will rip the tires. Yesterday it just accelerated fairly well, but not to SS standards.
So I was reading on here and read many post about the loss of boost. So, I thought I had better see if I still had 20 PSI or more. Nope somewhere around 5 PSI is all I get.
I stopped by the auto parts store and had the codes scanned. It has thrown code P0236, which is turbo charger issue essentially. (Like I was not aware of that). I have seen multiple posts about issues with the Boost Valve Spring, and also the common Map sensor issue with it being too close to the AC condenser or the bypass tube. (this seemed to be mostly a problem for guys with the Stage 1 kit.
Now I am new to this turbo thing. (I have Grand Prixs with Super Chargers, but this is different and I have not had to mess with the Prixs much either). I do not know the mods that may have been done to my car. How do I know if it has a stage 1 kit? What is comp mode?
If you can help I would sure appreciate it. I don't use turbo a ton, but when I flog it, I sure like to have it ready to jump.
1 more thing, I had the CEL light cleared and it has stayed off. It seems to have less turbo lag sense the light is off does that make any sense?
Tex

 

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-a...rder%25201.JPG

This is my work order that the Chevy dealer gave to me after the repair for that code.

 

Non of the auto supply stores seem to carry the Bypass Valve spring. Is that a dealer only item? I know on guy on here mentions to have purchased one for $13. Does anyone have a part number for this spring?
How about where it is located on the car?
Thanks

 

First off. No offense meant, but if you have to ask where it's located, you may want to get someone else to do the work or at least help you out. The valve is a pain to reach and get the 3 bolts out. You best bet is skinny arms and a 1/4" drive ratchet with a wiggler end.
Follow the IC tube(blue arrows) back behind the air breather assembly. Look down behind and below where the red arrow is pointing. About 10" down you will see the whiteish plastic cover of the valve, just below the IC tube clamp.
Attachment 14710

Here's a picture of the stock valve off the car. When installed all you can see is the white plastic cover. The spring and diaphram will be internal and covered.
The valve in the picture is sitting about the same angle as it would when bolted up.
edit: The valve cover is only about 2" round. Kind of small.
Attachment 14711

 

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-tutorial-library-21/how-bypass-valve-spring-replacement-43763/

more pictures in this thread to help out if needed

 

I wanted to follow up with this and let you all know what the solution to my boost problem was, as I hate finding a post that does not end and have any answers. So here goes....The more I read and studied this issue the more it sounded like the problem that exists with the tmap sensor wire crimps. I had purchased my car used and as far as I knew it did not have any upgrades. This issue seems isolated to the cars that had the stage 1 upgrade. Finally I convinced myself that I needed to find out if my car had the stage 1 kit. There are 3 easy ways to tell; if the Tmap sensor has a blue label that reads Bosch, silver performance sticker under the hood, and one in the gas door that reads premium fuel 'required' not the customary recommended. At least the labels will be replaced if it is a factory job.
Turns out my car has a factory installed stage 1 kit. That was enough to convince me that I must have the wire crimping problem. I fixed the ones ones on the upper sensor first, knowing that would likely not be the problem. It was not. So a few days later I tackled the bottom sensor. Crimps looked good, done professionally, sealed up good, I could find no visible effects. If it had not been for all the posts I had read, I may not have clipped them and soldered the wires. I Decided that I did not have a lot to lose, so I went ahead and completed the job. To my utter surprise the problem was solved. I am so happy to have full boost back. If you are on the fence with this issue do yourself a favor clip the crimps and solder your wires, you be glad you did.

 

^ I agree. I always search before posting a new thread and when I read threads with no conclusion, it just pisses me the **** off. Thank you for making a valiant effort to contribute to this forum!

 

Great work diagnosing your problem & solving your issue.

Common sense & looking at obvious places is a good place to start.

Congratulations on your fix & thanks for letting all of us know!