New to forum, stage 1 kit issues...
#1
New to forum, stage 1 kit issues...
Just signed on to the forum, hoping to figure out what's wrong with my car since the dealer can't fix it. I've got a 2008 SS, 5 speed with 46K on the odo. Only mods are the stage 1 kit and K&N filter (not cold air kit). I'm having the loss of boost problems with associated CEL. The problem seems very random and more frequent now. I haven't been able to recreate the problem when I'm at the dealer and they've only had it happen once while it was in for one of the 5 trips for this problem. I've had the stage 1 kit's connections soldered and the MAF sensor replaced and am still having the problems. I've read alot of the threads and there doesn't seem to be a standard fix for the problem. Any thoughts?
#2
first thing....what is the code???? and secondly....welcome to the world of gms1 lol. it could be a couple different things. there is another thread going on right now where another member is having similar issues that he cannot seem to fix.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/ss-specific-service-issues-repairs-61/1st-problem-stage-1-a-37894/
the map sensors may be bad and need to be cleaned or replaced.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/ss-specific-service-issues-repairs-61/1st-problem-stage-1-a-37894/
the map sensors may be bad and need to be cleaned or replaced.
#4
Good luck...I've been fighting GMS1 problems...going on about 2 months now. I have changed and checked almost absolutely everything. Now...it feels like I'm just wasting money and not getting anywhere.
I can tell you the basics first.
Check:
Lower TMAP Sensor and Harness: located on the lower IC pipe (passenger side). There is absolutely no clearance at all. I fabbed a bracket up to hold the IC pipe back...giving me about 1/8" between the harness and the AC compressor. Under hard acceleration..the IC pipe can move and rub the insulation off of the wires...causing it to short out.
Do a Boost Leak Test:
I made my own boost leak tester...for about $13.00 at lowes. I will get you the parts list if your interested in trying it out. The boost leak test will tell you exactly if and where your leaking boost.
Check BPV:
It is located on the rear passenger side of the engine and is held in the three 10MM bolts. Check the bladder to see if it torn.
These are just a couple basic things to try....I'm sure some of the other members will let you know some things too.
I can tell you the basics first.
Check:
Lower TMAP Sensor and Harness: located on the lower IC pipe (passenger side). There is absolutely no clearance at all. I fabbed a bracket up to hold the IC pipe back...giving me about 1/8" between the harness and the AC compressor. Under hard acceleration..the IC pipe can move and rub the insulation off of the wires...causing it to short out.
Do a Boost Leak Test:
I made my own boost leak tester...for about $13.00 at lowes. I will get you the parts list if your interested in trying it out. The boost leak test will tell you exactly if and where your leaking boost.
Check BPV:
It is located on the rear passenger side of the engine and is held in the three 10MM bolts. Check the bladder to see if it torn.
These are just a couple basic things to try....I'm sure some of the other members will let you know some things too.
#5
Its the P0101 code. Thanks for the possible problems to look at. The lower sensor was just soldered a few thousand miles ago and I was having the problems before that. The problem did go away for awhile after that, will check out the wires. The problem isn't consistant so I don't think its a system integrity problem, it feels like either a BOV or wastegate is sticking and then unsticking. I get 0-3# boost during the problem period and then is goes away all of the sudden.
#6
A few thousand miles is plenty far to rub the wire raw especially if you use the little peddle on the right much. Here is what my dealer did to stop it , 16,000 miles ago.
see how close it still is ?
You may have a whole different problem, but if this little design flaw isn't fixed it will happen.
see how close it still is ?
You may have a whole different problem, but if this little design flaw isn't fixed it will happen.
#7
Its the P0101 code. Thanks for the possible problems to look at. The lower sensor was just soldered a few thousand miles ago and I was having the problems before that. The problem did go away for awhile after that, will check out the wires. The problem isn't consistant so I don't think its a system integrity problem, it feels like either a BOV or wastegate is sticking and then unsticking. I get 0-3# boost during the problem period and then is goes away all of the sudden.
The next thing I was told to change is the Wastegate Actuator....BUT...it looks like it's not a servicable part....
Not sure how I'm going to manage to get it....
#9
BUT . . . I had the same issues your describing and GM kept saying it was the actuator, (which is NEVER in stock).
I searched and found that usually the actuator never breaks, it's just the parts that hook to it, in my case the service tech cracked the hose that goes on the nipple of the actuator.
What it sounds like is happening to you is a lazy chevy dealer and GM washing there hands of the matter (which was my problem).
Search the web, document every problem you have, find the owner of the dealer and crop a pound of paperwork on his/her ass and tell them to go through all the hoses and nipples part by part until they fix it.
They will, especially if you back it up to General Motors.
See this for a GM techlink update from a few years ago.
#10
The lower sensor is a stupid PITA and something someone should have seen a long time ago.
BUT . . . I had the same issues your describing and GM kept saying it was the actuator, (which is NEVER in stock).
I searched and found that usually the actuator never breaks, it's just the parts that hook to it, in my case the service tech cracked the hose that goes on the nipple of the actuator.
What it sounds like is happening to you is a lazy chevy dealer and GM washing there hands of the matter (which was my problem).
Search the web, document every problem you have, find the owner of the dealer and crop a pound of paperwork on his/her ass and tell them to go through all the hoses and nipples part by part until they fix it.
They will, especially if you back it up to General Motors.
See this for a GM techlink update from a few years ago.
BUT . . . I had the same issues your describing and GM kept saying it was the actuator, (which is NEVER in stock).
I searched and found that usually the actuator never breaks, it's just the parts that hook to it, in my case the service tech cracked the hose that goes on the nipple of the actuator.
What it sounds like is happening to you is a lazy chevy dealer and GM washing there hands of the matter (which was my problem).
Search the web, document every problem you have, find the owner of the dealer and crop a pound of paperwork on his/her ass and tell them to go through all the hoses and nipples part by part until they fix it.
They will, especially if you back it up to General Motors.
See this for a GM techlink update from a few years ago.
Awesome info thanks for the post. I would check the wiring i have been lucky with my stage.1 no problems. Just check what said above and you will find the problem.