Kmcdowell: My car lit the MIL the other day and I took it into the dealer. They scanned it, reset the code that was set (lower TMAP sensor). In 5 minutes I saw my car backing out of the bay, turn around move slowly to their huge open rear lot and take off like a missile! Then it came back in and the verdict was he wanted to change the upper TMAP (he had recently done the lower). Then we talked soldering instead of crimps. Dealership gave him the OK to do both upper & lower, plus replace the upper. Soldering was an issue, but thanks to a few pages of stuff I had printed from the HHR Network, they agreed to do it under warranty. Car runs much smoother now and the boost was up to very close to 20 and I think it would go a bit more if I pushed harder. Once I showed the dealership that other dealers were dealing with the same repetitive problem and were now doing solder only on these cars they agreed. So far so good on this repair. I've had the Stage1 on now for just over a year.

 

Here's what Mr. Goodwrench installed on mine to keep the wires from rubbing. I felt around it when we changed the oil, there is still just enough room to do that. No evidence of rubbing.

 

I like what they did there on yours and I intend to show my dealer if I ever have another problem. When I saw that, it started me thinking so I went out and felt around the charge pipe and there is quite a bit a free movement there due to the hose connections at the intake manifold and intercooler nozzles. I thought they drilled a hole in your frame until I saw the hole is already there on mine too. Now I'm thinking of doing something similar. Do you know what they used for that bracket or did they simply make it up from a piece of scrap? It looks very good. The only think that I would add to it if I do it on mine would be to put a chaffing guard where the metal touches the pipe. Possibly a piece of old inner tube rubber so that movement does not cause the bracket to dig into the charge pipe. Every time the motor moves in the mounts the bracket and pipe will rub. Or, like you mention you could simply keep an eye on it and if you start to see wear marks on the pipe do something at that time. Thanks for the photo. While I was looking at mine, I noted that the tech routed the cable on the forward side of two other connectors in the area to the right of the TMAP and it keeps the cable held back from the AC compressor. Why was that hole in the frame to begin with? Maybe GM new that a bracket would be needed !! If you ever have that puppy off for anything, make up a dimension sketch and ID what the bolt size is that was used. If folks could make them up themselves, installation would be a snap and save everyone a lot of headaches.