Your right the turbo tech engine mount isn't the fix . . . well maybe it is, because what a difference it makes to the car. Just had the auto trans top mount installed along with H+R springs.

The old mount was broken or almost broken as you could flex it with your hand and now the car is solid, very little torque steer and lays down two strips of rubber on the road.

No vibration when sitting, a slight vibration is felt in the steering wheel under power but probably nothing anyone else would notice.

The H+R springs seems to ride nicer than the stock springs but corner well when going hard.

With the mount and the springs it's like a whole different car and no cut off with the sensor hitting the ac.

Best,

J.

P.S. thank you turbo tech and full disclaimer, I knew nothing about this company, until I saw their ad on this forum and paid full retail.

 

I am glad to see you have it solved.

I suspect more are having the problem of the sensor hitting the AC.

For some even if they put the mount in I would still make sure you have clearance on the connector. The mount may work on some and not on others just depending on how much space you have.

Sounds like the mount is a good move even if you don't have the hitting problem.

 

If you really drive this car hard, I think you realize some of the issues are never really "solved". I think most of it comes from the computer as some days it's a bat out of hell, other days it just seems like it can't make up it's mind.

Also there are a lot of cheap parts on this car, i.e. the motor mount, the brakes, fuel pump and I've replaced them all, usually with better quality aftermarket parts.

Personally, I will say this again I wish I had never gone with the gm upgrade. With the auto it was a big power change and a big hassel and if you view this car as a nice semi sporty cruiser or gt and drive it accordingly it works fine.

If you want a fire eating monster, then I really don't believe the platform and parts are up to it.

After driving it hard last night on the streets of LA (was running late) there was a lot of crashing into the bump stops on the crapped out streets like La Brea and I might put the stock springs back in.

In retrospect, had I just left it stock it was fun, a little underpowered, but had no issues until the upgrade.

Then things started to get funky and you know you have a problem when your on a first name basis with your mechanic.

J.

 

You have to keep in mind this is a cheap economy car with a hot engine. You just don't get much real performance anymore for under $25K anymore and when you do it is not going to be a BMW or Porsche.

The HHR was a sub $20K vehicle that used cheaper items to keep the price low. If GM had upgraded all it should few of us would have paid the price and some could not have paid the price. Even in a VW Golf or Mada 3 there are cheap parts and issuesa all of their own.

The HHR SS was only to be a fun to drive affordable performance car not a ultimate sports car. THe way it drives I am suprised there has not been more of an issue of roll overs with the high center of gravity.

The upgrade works if it is installed proplerly most of us have had few if any issues but some have repeated. I tend to think the installer is the key to this and the lack of understanding on trouble shooting with many techs.

The main issue is they should have has adapter harness plug in's and that would have been the best thing GM could have done.

They saved money on this kit I think because if it had cost more it would have never made the market. Lets face it the T MAP is from a Alfa Romeo that also uses a Ecotech engine.

As for springs the best ride is factory springs. Anytime you lower a vehicle the spring rate generally climbs and the ride get harsher. Few lowering kits ride better unless it is a Air Ride system with bags.

If a vehicle is a weekend toy mods are great but often for a daily driver stock is the best way to go except for the upgrade turbo kit.

Usually mods then to improve power or handling but also comprimise something somewhere. Many are willing to put up with them changes for the added performance but often some are not.

GM and other automakers spend a lot of time and money developing vehicles to give the best all around service for daily driving. They also may not always use the best parts available to keep the cost of the vehicle down. This is no more ture in the HHR class than any. Have you priced the pads and rotors for a ZR1?

I bought mine to drive and enjoy on daily runs. I am not going to get mod crazy with mine as it is a daily driver and not a race car. I have another car for that and it comes our when I just want to play.

 

Got it back today. They had previously soldered the lower sensors, this time they also soldered the upper sensors as well. Couldn't test it out too much on the way home because the tropical storm was dropping a ton and a half of rain on me, but it seemed responsive and didn't surge at all.

 

Whats the point of a CEL if the code they get from it can't be used to dignose the problem? I've taken it into the dealership 3 times after waiting long enough for the CEL to come on but because it's been stopped and started it doesn't help them figure out whats wrong. Then they can never get it to mess up when they drive it. Since they can't get it to screw up they can't verify the problem. Apparently 4 months of CELs and customer complaints aren't verification. I'm starting to regret this purchase.

 

Electrical issues are the most difficult to fix. The issue with the codes are some are hard code that set and some are not.

If you get a hard code fixing it is not an issue but get soft code that will not set....well you already know.

Things are better now as most codes set but soft codes are still the bane of any dealer tech. The real issue is while the cars are better at recording codes the cars are just that much more complex.

Advanced are still coming and things will continue to improve but these issues are common on all brands and models. In some cases issues are never resolved.

It is just a shame that GMPD and the Dealers are not better in tune with each other. Also it would be better too if al dealers were like the one I deal with and take responsibility for their warranty issues with now problem.

 

A truer statement will never be made.

 

Everyone should read the Part 2 of this thread. I soldered mine and havent had one issue since over a week. I also posted pictures of the fix.

 

Your correct if and IF is a BIG word also requires an effort. I had Secret Services solder both upper and lower connections haven't has an issue in 2 Years. If people can't read and learn from others who have had the same issue and rectified it. Well then let them ride around then with the issue while the rest of us. Cruise on by LOL at them and listen to them continue to cry. People take the time cut off the crappy GM connectors solder the wires then double shrink wrap them. Tell me later how much you appreciate it. Rant done.