Change the sprockets when you change the chain.

 

Also, you will need to replace a number of the bolts since they are torque to yield. Vibration damper and camshaft sprockets for sure.

 

Good find RJ

 

I used this method to check the balancer chain , that's how I found the loose chain that turned out to be the broken guide that the internal tensioner pushes up against . Can't believe the chain didn't fly off.

 

I would have thought it would be cogs on cam gear X cogs on balance shaft gears. Something to to with that relation

 

The cam gears are driven by the timing chain , the balance shafts drive off the water pump chain

 

Yes but they all drive off the crank. To get all 6 of the timing marks to line up again takes a lot of revolutions.

 

To be more accurate, the formula is probably based on a ratio of the lengths of the 2 chains. If they were exactly the same length, I would think all 6 marks might line up every 2 revolutions. But they are not the same. And it might be complicated by the ratio of cogs on the crank to cogs on the balance shaft gears, as well as the ratio of cogs on the cam gears to cogs on the crank.

 

I am assembling the new parts today , both tensioners , both cam sprockets , both crank sprockets , both chains , all of the guides , bolts , oil jet . When putting the cam sprockets on is ok for cams to move either way a little to be able to get the chains on ? They moved a little when taking apart and putting together but chain links line up with all timing marks on crank and cam sprockets . They seem to be in the original position when I set TDC .

 

Hold the cams with a 24 mm open end wrench or an adjustable crescent wrench