2010 SS Whistle at startup and after braking
09-17-2015, 11:26 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: 12-17-2014
Location: Canton, OH
Posts: 101
It is a 2010 Auto SS. After checking the link OldBlue sent, I did find the Vacuum Pump Assembly, and when starting the car you can definitely hear something from that area. Makes the noise at startup and when stepping off the brake pedal after pushing it all the way down (in park, or idle).
When you say pump, you mean the vacuum pump, not the fuel pump right? Fuel pump is in the rear (So I think I just answered my own question).
Since it's getting cooler here in PA, there usually is some moisture buildup on the car in the morning, that could be how moisture got into the pump? Or the tube going to the Vacuum pump has a hole in it somewhere...
When you say pump, you mean the vacuum pump, not the fuel pump right? Fuel pump is in the rear (So I think I just answered my own question).
Since it's getting cooler here in PA, there usually is some moisture buildup on the car in the morning, that could be how moisture got into the pump? Or the tube going to the Vacuum pump has a hole in it somewhere...
Keep in mind, it's a vacuum pump. The "supply" for the pump is most likely in-line somewhere with the engine side brake booster vacuum source. For you to have a leak in any of the supply lines leading to the brake booster, you would most likely have a higher (than normal) idle, drivability issues, and (possibly) a SES light.
If I had to guess (which by default I have to!!), IF it is a moisture issue, it's most likely entering the vacuum pump by back-feeding from its outlet after the pump has been deactivated (once the engine vacuum comes up to norm).
That's why I'm suggesting (as a last ditch effort before replacing) to disconnect the supply (source that's attached to the brake booster) when it's cold (so that it actually is in operation) and squirt some oil in it WHILE it's on.
Reconnect everything before you attempt to drive it, because if you haven't had an actual leak before, you definitely will if you haven't reconnected everything properly.
09-17-2015, 12:44 PM
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 09-02-2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 383
You are correct. The vacuum pump (if installed) on the Auto-Trans cars is located towards the inside of the "K" frame (engine frame) opposite the front attachment point for the driver's front A-arm.
Keep in mind, it's a vacuum pump. The "supply" for the pump is most likely in-line somewhere with the engine side brake booster vacuum source. For you to have a leak in any of the supply lines leading to the brake booster, you would most likely have a higher (than normal) idle, drivability issues, and (possibly) a SES light.
If I had to guess (which by default I have to!!), IF it is a moisture issue, it's most likely entering the vacuum pump by back-feeding from its outlet after the pump has been deactivated (once the engine vacuum comes up to norm).
That's why I'm suggesting (as a last ditch effort before replacing) to disconnect the supply (source that's attached to the brake booster) when it's cold (so that it actually is in operation) and squirt some oil in it WHILE it's on.
Reconnect everything before you attempt to drive it, because if you haven't had an actual leak before, you definitely will if you haven't reconnected everything properly.
Keep in mind, it's a vacuum pump. The "supply" for the pump is most likely in-line somewhere with the engine side brake booster vacuum source. For you to have a leak in any of the supply lines leading to the brake booster, you would most likely have a higher (than normal) idle, drivability issues, and (possibly) a SES light.
If I had to guess (which by default I have to!!), IF it is a moisture issue, it's most likely entering the vacuum pump by back-feeding from its outlet after the pump has been deactivated (once the engine vacuum comes up to norm).
That's why I'm suggesting (as a last ditch effort before replacing) to disconnect the supply (source that's attached to the brake booster) when it's cold (so that it actually is in operation) and squirt some oil in it WHILE it's on.
Reconnect everything before you attempt to drive it, because if you haven't had an actual leak before, you definitely will if you haven't reconnected everything properly.
Excellent, thanks Kersh and OldBlue! Car is idling just fine, no drivability issues, or a SES light, so maybe it is just a bad Vacuum pump. I found the ACDelco pump on Amazon for under $100, so I'm probably just going to replace the pump. If the noise happens with the new one, then I know it's a minor leak in the tube. I also bought the car with 75,000 miles, so it could be possible the pump is going bad.
09-17-2015, 01:28 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: 12-17-2014
Location: Canton, OH
Posts: 101
For the heck of it, just disconnect the power to the pump tonight when you're done driving and see if you get the noise in the morning when you restart cold.
If you don't get the noise (and you have every other morning), that should pretty much eliminate anything except the pump itself.
If you don't get the noise (and you have every other morning), that should pretty much eliminate anything except the pump itself.
09-17-2015, 01:50 PM
#14
Administrator
Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 36,519
Does the pump come with the hose?
If not here is a link to the GM dealers who sell this discontinued part 20817629
http://oemcats.com/oem-parts/20817629.html
If not here is a link to the GM dealers who sell this discontinued part 20817629
http://oemcats.com/oem-parts/20817629.html
09-21-2015, 09:40 AM
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 09-02-2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 383
Does the pump come with the hose?
If not here is a link to the GM dealers who sell this discontinued part 20817629
GM 20817629 Hose - GM genuine OEM part
If not here is a link to the GM dealers who sell this discontinued part 20817629
GM 20817629 Hose - GM genuine OEM part
Good news is I'll be creating a How-to post with photos when I finally get time to fix it. Just a few bolts to drop the bracket for the pump, put the new one on, reconnect the tube and wiring harness, and you're done!
09-24-2015, 11:58 AM
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 09-02-2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 383
Quick Update,
Finally got around to replacing the vacuum, and no more whistle at startup and/or braking! Took photos of the process and plan on making a how to in the next couple days!
Finally got around to replacing the vacuum, and no more whistle at startup and/or braking! Took photos of the process and plan on making a how to in the next couple days!
09-24-2015, 11:17 PM
#19
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 09-02-2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 383
Just added it to the "'How To' Tutorial Library" , but maybe I should have put it in the "SS Specific Issues/Repairs" ?
Either way, you can check it out here - https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...31/#post787703
Either way, you can check it out here - https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...31/#post787703
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