Getting more frustrated with my Stage1....
Insane... not what i am saying. i am saying get your revs up to engage the boost better. like Cokey said try droping into I than back to D. We all didn't by 'race' cars so we have to deal with learning the cars. no different than any other. Got learn the difference between boost on demand with SC and making boost with a TC. Your gonna get more out of a TC in the long run. Biggest thing is to find the RPM range that shows most power... ie top of power curve or just before top and punch it then. All in all drive around and figure the car out.
Another reason why I would never own a 4 cyl Auto. Autos suck for Racing from a roll. from a dig it's ok. If you want to fix the Auto, get a 3000 stall for it. I did the Auto thing in the Z28 and from a Dig I would move but from a roll, racing a manual car was crappy. I think your car is running just fine as well and it's just doing what Autos do. There is a bad spot for RPM's and racing..
THe Turbo needs RPM to run boost. Since you can not shift it into 1 with an auto you can not control the RPM much. With a manual you can hit first or second gear at will the out you have I.
RPM = Boost. The more the engine pulls the more the exhaust gas spins the turbo. There is a little lag with all of them but nothing like in the past. Also there are electrronic controls that help prevent the tranny from breaking. Most cars today have things built in to save the auto trannys most are at shift point and will slow car just a little.
You're HHR auto is built for drivablility and a long life not racing neon's. If you want more contols and a little more responce the 5 sp is the only way to go.
RPM = Boost. The more the engine pulls the more the exhaust gas spins the turbo. There is a little lag with all of them but nothing like in the past. Also there are electrronic controls that help prevent the tranny from breaking. Most cars today have things built in to save the auto trannys most are at shift point and will slow car just a little.
You're HHR auto is built for drivablility and a long life not racing neon's. If you want more contols and a little more responce the 5 sp is the only way to go.
I am just frustrated that you cant hit the gas and have the power your suppose to. I thought thats what allowed it to build boost was the waste gate or bov not opening until it has made enough boost? And yes I agree that manual is the way to go for turbo cars they just didn't have any around when i was looking.
Just think how it used to be when there was a lot more lag than today. I remember cars in the past you could count slow to 3 and the power was just starting. THen it came on with a rush. You used to have to time your passes to have the power to make it around.
I just saw a guy with a Trans Am Turbo drag car that was learning to drive it. He had a heck of a time getting hte boot up on the line and holding the car at high RPM. When he released it it was gone and all over the track up to 200 MPH. I thought he was going to pile it up before the end of the day.
Turbos have come a long way but they still have a few quirks.
I just saw a guy with a Trans Am Turbo drag car that was learning to drive it. He had a heck of a time getting hte boot up on the line and holding the car at high RPM. When he released it it was gone and all over the track up to 200 MPH. I thought he was going to pile it up before the end of the day.
Turbos have come a long way but they still have a few quirks.
Screw 3000
I went with a 4000 stall for my Formula.
I can consistanly run mid to low 1.6 60' . It also increases the shift extenions a lot. Never drops below 5k on the shift so the car is always in it's powerband. When I spray the car the shift extenions raise even higher. Stalled auto's pretty much rule at the track...on the street not as much.
It would have been a low 10 second car for sure with all the mods and a good tranny.
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