2.0L Performance Tech 260hp (235hp auto) Turbocharged SS tuner version. 260 lb-ft of torque

Installing an Oil Catch Can

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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 06:22 PM
  #131  
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You are correct, it is indeed a manual drain.
Old Feb 14, 2016 | 02:58 PM
  #132  
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It was designed to(and did) seal... with positive pressure. But now it's being subjected to negative pressure, and it doesn't like it. Other similar, cheap filters may experience a similar, cheap result. The caps fix the problem. No way of knowing if the other can leaks, since it only gets vacuum during boost condition. But I capped it , too, so it's good.

It would be nice if there were an inexpensive vacuum sensor that we could install in-line, that could send a signal to a smartphone app like torque. I'm thinking about ordering a wireless OBD2 reader. I wonder if the sensor for the vacuum/boost gauge on the A-pillar(or RPD) could be temporarily relocated. I'd like to know how much vacuum I'm getting at various points.
Old Feb 16, 2016 | 11:21 AM
  #133  
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Well you could run a standard boost/vacuum guage to read the pressures from the pcv. Unfortunately, both the boost and rpd gauges are calculated values from various sensors. So, can't temporarily relocate that. I have my mechanical gauge set I can put in line just to verify, but I don't think I'll be running for another month or so. My list seems to be getting longer instead of shorter...
Old Feb 16, 2016 | 11:41 AM
  #134  
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That would work between the manifold and the brake booster line, But there should be plenty of suction there, I'm not concerned. I'd like to be able to measure right at the turbo, right at port #2, and then and the catch can, to see how much suction I'm getting, and how much may be getting lost in all that hose(while in various levels of boost).

You'd have to put a fair amount of tubing on your gauge to get the gauge where you could see it while driving. Would that cause the gauge to give a false reading of poor vacuum? I guess comparatively, you could still determine how much was being lost at different points because of the hoses.
Old Feb 16, 2016 | 12:29 PM
  #135  
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I could send you my factory port 2 hose! (That is, if I can find it.) Than you can splice in a gauge temporarily. You're correct about the amount of hose. It is going to effect the readings. For the shortest path, I would remove the firewall/wiper cover/trim (no idea what that thing is called!) And run the guage tied in the front window outside. If you didn't want to go that route, you're next shortest path would be through the cabin filter and into the glove box.

Just a thought
Old Feb 16, 2016 | 11:41 PM
  #136  
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It's working!!!! Took about a 70 mile round trip today, just went out and looked at the catch can. It's not much, but it's something!






This is in the Manifold can, nothing in the Turbo can.
Old Feb 17, 2016 | 04:07 AM
  #137  
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Jealous....

That's awesome RJ! And after all that, your valves thank you.
Old Feb 17, 2016 | 07:23 AM
  #138  
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Yes it is You are going to get more oil collection from that one than the other, unless you have it matted all the time

Still gathering all the parts to transform the ebay can into something that will work. I'm going to put it on my truck first to prove the concept and make additional ones after that. Goning to put them on every car I have.
Old Feb 20, 2016 | 07:52 PM
  #139  
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Alright, I took the SS for a trip yesterday, close to 500 miles, and I have some more results for our science experiment, good and not so good.



The top edge of the blue tape is at the muck level. I caught what seemed like a lot of muck. Nearly filled both cans, with a slight edge to the turbo side can. However, once I got the cans drained, it turns out I only caught about 25 ml. or about 5 teaspoons. This demonstrates that I need bigger cans I'm allowing the muck to separate in a glass jar, I'll take a pic, then spread it out on paper towels and take another pic, probably tomorrow.

These dang cans, when negative pressure is applied, the drain valve opens. Furthermore, the rubber cap that I put on the drain nipple to seal the slight vacuum leak, apparently is not enough to keep the muck from seeping out, soiling the area around the can. And although the oil can seep out, the drain valve will not let the muck drain out for collection, I had to remove the cans and unscrew the bowls! These home depot filters are not going to work, and the larger ones use the same drain valve. Oh yeah, and a slight amount is getting by the filtration into the clean side hoses.

I looked at the filters at Lowe's, both of their filters use an automatic drain, so that's no good.

I am starting to consider buying a 2 valve can, like the RX, or the one 2005HHRauto posted looks good too. The fact that I filled both the small cans, just freeway driving, not much boosting, tells me that the vacuum at both points is good. Add to that the fact that the vacuum was strong enough to pull some of the muck through the 5 micron filter(some of it was probably leaking around it, tho), is very encouraging.
Old Feb 21, 2016 | 09:40 AM
  #140  
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RJ
Is there a picture of the internals of the 2 valve catch can?
By "2 valve" is this a can that links two different areas of oil source?
Or is there a check valve incorporated into it?
The ones you have now look like the oil is emulsified where the oil looks like it's in a blender.
Or possibly moisture is present in the oil.
As a side note: Have to look at the catch can I built just for the turbo and see what's in there.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...-can-ss-54374/



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