Car won't start
#21
Since the water pump is operated by the timing chain, if the water pump has seized up, it could theoretically keep the car from staring........
Unless it's below freezing, starting / running your vehicle without coolant is a bad idea. Even then, having no coolant can cause your water pump to burn out leading to a much more costly repair. But since OP was driving when he lost coolant, I'm guessing the car has already reached this point & ruined the engine.
Unless it's below freezing, starting / running your vehicle without coolant is a bad idea. Even then, having no coolant can cause your water pump to burn out leading to a much more costly repair. But since OP was driving when he lost coolant, I'm guessing the car has already reached this point & ruined the engine.
The OP needs to fix or at least figure out the reason for the no start issue before worrying about his radiator/coolant leak damage. If he destroyed the engine, it may not be worth it (cost wise) trying to replace the engine AND do the other repairs.
Back in my mechanic days, I've started many vehicles without coolant. Just let them run for a few seconds to verify they were in running order before completing the job.
Engine swaps we would always get the replacement in and fire it up for a test. Then we would would hook up accessories and such and complete the job.
#22
Anybody want to venture into the possibility the damaged rad and what ever was run over could have damaged some wiring and possibly the ECM ? Or maybe the CPS?
I can't tell from here but it could be.
I can't tell from here but it could be.
#23
The OP has verified that it still turns over. My SS drove for a week with temps between 230-260. Got a blown head gasket, never locked the motor though. I'm with FMG, while coolant is necessary under normal operation the engine will start and run without coolant.
The starter motor has enough torque to overcome a seized water pump, and it's a "crank, no start situation"
Actually hearing the water pump is not good! Probably burnt out from running dry. All is not lost though. The engine can pulled and rebuilt for less than 500 bucks. Or you could take your chances and drop in one from a donor vehicle. Either way, it'll take some tools and know how to get the job done. Dayton is a drive for me, if you can get it here I'll be happy to lend a hand.
Do ya think we've scared the OP away?! We're only trying to help...
The starter motor has enough torque to overcome a seized water pump, and it's a "crank, no start situation"
Actually hearing the water pump is not good! Probably burnt out from running dry. All is not lost though. The engine can pulled and rebuilt for less than 500 bucks. Or you could take your chances and drop in one from a donor vehicle. Either way, it'll take some tools and know how to get the job done. Dayton is a drive for me, if you can get it here I'll be happy to lend a hand.
Do ya think we've scared the OP away?! We're only trying to help...
#25
#26
No need to hide Chaos. Although the OP might think about it if the wife catches a glimpse of this thread!
I was only pointing it out because the starter is really quite strong for its size. It would easily force a frozen pump around. Being overheated and run dry doesn't explain why it won't start. Depends on what was hit and what else beside the radiator it damaged. Blue might be onto something there. The coils are still grounded, since the OP saw them spark. There's not much up front and low that would cause a "no start", if the ECM wasn't grounded you'd have a crank signal loss and no spark. Guess we'll have to wait for a response and see where we're at.
....taps foot....we're all waiting. LOL
I was only pointing it out because the starter is really quite strong for its size. It would easily force a frozen pump around. Being overheated and run dry doesn't explain why it won't start. Depends on what was hit and what else beside the radiator it damaged. Blue might be onto something there. The coils are still grounded, since the OP saw them spark. There's not much up front and low that would cause a "no start", if the ECM wasn't grounded you'd have a crank signal loss and no spark. Guess we'll have to wait for a response and see where we're at.
....taps foot....we're all waiting. LOL
#28
Well. The OP's "time" statistic shows he was here at 1:25 pm today.
Come on Tommy. Give us an update please. Don't be scared off by the normal forum chatter.
We really would like to know where you're at with identifying the problem. And, we really would like to help out if we can.
We're all just one big family here.
Come on Tommy. Give us an update please. Don't be scared off by the normal forum chatter.
We really would like to know where you're at with identifying the problem. And, we really would like to help out if we can.
We're all just one big family here.
#29
"It cranks but don't start"
If it has spark, give it a "sniff" of either and see if it lights.
If it don't, look into a fuel issue or yes a compression problem.
When it over heated it didn't lock up because it can still turn over.
Over heat is going to cook the rings that fast on these engines so there is low/no compression?
One last thing. He said loss of coolant. Was it fast?
If it was, how can a temperature gauge show overheat when there is no coolant surrounding it?
Sorry if I'm over thinking but it seems like to much happened just because the engine got hot.
If it has spark, give it a "sniff" of either and see if it lights.
If it don't, look into a fuel issue or yes a compression problem.
When it over heated it didn't lock up because it can still turn over.
Over heat is going to cook the rings that fast on these engines so there is low/no compression?
One last thing. He said loss of coolant. Was it fast?
If it was, how can a temperature gauge show overheat when there is no coolant surrounding it?
Sorry if I'm over thinking but it seems like to much happened just because the engine got hot.
#30
Quite possible there catman. A small puncture would possibly erupt the radiator because of the boiling point lowering so quickly. The temp sensor probably doesn't care after the coolant is gone, the aluminum will hold the temp and lower resistance across the sensor. The aluminum housing would be 260+ for probably 10-15 minutes.
I drove for about a week with temps 230-260*. With the SS. If it ran completely dry it's going to need a rebuild. At this point I'm guessing we won't hear back. I'm only 3 hours away from dayton, but the car would need to get up to Cleveland.
Fingers crossed...taps foot...we're waiting
I drove for about a week with temps 230-260*. With the SS. If it ran completely dry it's going to need a rebuild. At this point I'm guessing we won't hear back. I'm only 3 hours away from dayton, but the car would need to get up to Cleveland.
Fingers crossed...taps foot...we're waiting
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