Nice work, can't wait to see the dyno #'s!

 

Crank is supposed to be good to 450+whp. Even the crank in the 2.2l has been raced to over 500whp by GM. I have not come across any crank failures in my research.

I am not balancing the rotating assembly. The pistons and rods are sets and spec'd to within 1.5g. Actually I am going to weigh the stockers to see what the differential is...I'll get back to you on this. While there are many more things I would like to do with this build as well(I can think of another $2k), I simply cannot afford to build a race quality motor. Many people doing forged internals don't even pull the engine out. If I were revving 8000-8500rpms I would certainly balance the rotating assembly, but I will end up revving around 74-7500rpms since I want to retain the balance shafts.

You and me both

 

I better make sure my tune is right ....in case you sneek up on me with that monster.

 

I hear you on the cost factor
I would still highly recommend having the rotating assembly balanced.I have gotten away on a few of my engine builds without having to balance but I am assuming that the weights of old vs new will be quite a big difference and worth the 300 bucks or so.
I am sure you have looked into the piston ring end gaps they are different for a boosted application and theories on end gaps have changed considerably in the last few years.
Just my opinion of course sounds like a very fun ride.
Any idea if the stock pistons where cast or hypeuretic.
Also are the new pistons 4032 or 2618 alloy just curios seeing how of course piston to wall
Clearance recommendations differ.
Keep us posted

 

Hey thanks for the advice. Stock pistons are hypereutectic I believe. The new pistons are 2618. I noticed clearances are listed at ~.004 for 2618. I also checked the stock ring gap and it is about .018, but according to the spec sheet I should have the new 1st ring gap at .018 as well...I am going to look into these tolerances though.

Just finished deglazing the cylinders. They all had the same wear patterns so it was nice to see uniformity. Also got pretty far with the head port.

 

Nice! Quick question, did you see the oil leak some of us are having between the lower case? Seen here... https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...261#post610261 if you did, can you verify it is coming from between the lower/upper half?

 

hope you read through the gm performance build book. looks like fun. gm says you can do your pistons with the motor in the car but prolly easier the way you did it. i gave up on the m62 a few years ago because theres not a lot to gain out of the motor without spending 10K on the motor. the blower the faster you spin it the less efficient it becomes and the hotter your iat becomes. if it were me and you are seto on the blower twin charge it for that extra oomph. then you could get something like 400 out of it prolly. just a thought. definetly look into a better head gasket. dont feel like 9:1 comp is low knew a cobalt with 8.5:1 for FI. looks like you have done your homework just wanted to add to the discussion.

 

Check with the ring companies and some other engine builders you will notice they will not recommend to make the top ring gap bigger then the second ring as a matter a fact most will now recommend to make the second ring gap bigger than the top.
Also I use to run a small roots blower and spun it probably close to 10000 rpm or more in a small block chevy worked great but the more you drive it the hotter the case would get and it would loose power.still a whole lot better than stock though.

 

I didn't have a leak there. I have a slow leak, but mine is on the front. I purchased a new front cover gasket to make sure I take care of it now. I couldn't tell if it was the oil pan or front cover gasket so better safe than sorry. On the side of the engine(firewall side) I had a very slight leak that is between the upper and lower half of the block(not dripping at all just moist at the seam). I snugged up the outer bolts there since I have access to them hoping that will solve it. I do not want to pull that apart since the crank bolts are TTY and there are 20 of them at $7ea.

Yeah I have gone through the book and I am still referencing it. I pulled it since I am doing a new clutch and flywheel too. My IAT2s are pretty good. They recover quickly as well with the ZZP S3 heat exchanger, dual-pass end-plate and phenolic spacer. The spacer keeps the intake manifold from heat soaking. I am eager to see the dyno afterwards...If the whp is still climbing I think if I were to pull the balance shafts and spin the crap out of the SC(2.6") ~8k rpms it could approach 400whp. Oh actually using a new stock gasket. They are apparently pretty stout and hold beyond 500whp.

Called JE yesterday and confirmed the end gap which is .017 and .019. Set the end gap for each ring/cylinder and pistons are going in either tonight or tomorrow. The laminova intake manifold for the LSJ is able to help the SC temps recover. After my engine is heatsoaked, I can hold my hand on the blower, but not the valve cover. I think this is because of my cooling mods though.

 

Looking SWEET Freek!