nacorona

Ok just got my adapter kit in the mail today. I'll let ya know the for realz facts when I get it figured out.

billeesy

Cool. I just ordered mine today. Should receive it in a few days.

nacorona

Ok. Well, now that I have it in my hands and I'm lookin at it, it will retain all factory functions but will also seem to pass the chime through to whatever amp you hook to the drivers side front speaker connection. I'm looking into other options now, a few items from metra look good, but according to a tech I got ahold of on their site there's nothing to be done. Odd but there's still info to be had. I'm still lookin. Basic requirements seem to be met with this item tho.

billeesy

I just got mine today too. I am confused because it says that it is used for a factory amplified system. I do not have an amplified system and I do not think there are RCA connections on my head unit. So in order to hook this up I have to have something to convert the connections to RCA. This is my guess anyways.

I found this article below. It kind of clears it up a little for me. The RCA cables are for the amp connections. ???

"This PAC AOEM-GM1416A pre-amp converter (also called a differential converter or high-low converter) is used to convert the speaker output from your standard factory car stereo to RCA cables for easy connection to an aftermarket amp. This will allow you to add up to a 4-channel amplifier to power additional speakers or subwoofers.

On one end, male plugs on the T-harness plug into your factory radio. (You will then plug the factory radio plugs into the provided female plugs on the T-harness.) On the other end of the harness are four female RCA output jacks. You'll use an RCA 'patch' cable to connect it to your aftermarket amplifier.

It has programmable input and output circuitry with slide switches, which allows connection of RCA level or speaker level input or output. DC coupling circuit ensures noise free integration and no load induced on the factory system. This is in contrast to a normal LOC which uses resistors and can stress a factory radio's circuitry.

This is for standard GM car stereo systems. It will not work with premium amplified sound systems. Look in our Add-An-Amp>>Universal category for a product to be used with amplified systems like BOSE."

http://replacementradios.com/product...oducts_id=1505

billeesy

Wow I looked what I wrote in my last post again and now it makes sense. I The RCA cables go to the amps. Im gonna need some long RCA cables to go all the way to the back and it looks like im gonna have to buy an aftermarket amp because I see no way how this rca cable will hook up to the factory amp, much less anything else that needs to hook up to an amp, like the voltage ???

Pretzel

Hello, I havent started this yet. I did end up buying a complete Body wire harness that has the sub woofer. Im planning on isolating the sub wires and add it to mine.
I did remove my PAL and can use that harness to splice into if needed.

But as said here before...Its much easyer to add an aftemarket amp...
Seems your in that path...

billeesy

Hi. So you your wire harness plugs into all three female connections in the amp?

Pretzel

The HHR I took the harness out from has a stock sub system.
Yes. It has the 3 amp connectors.

billeesy

Im trying to figure out what amp to buy now. That amp you have, the Polk Audio PA-330 amp put out 200 watts rms bridged. Im lookin to go with something around 300 watts rms or better but Im gonna have to spend at least $100. Im thinking maybe a cadence or kicker but still looking for a good deal on one. I don't trust a lot of those manufactures like pyle or pyramid.

billeesy

Okay, I just bought this amp Kenwood KAC-7204 2-Channel. I spent a little more than what I had planned but I guess you have to pay a little extra for quality. It should arrive this week. I bought it on ebay.