Adding Factory Sub Woofer to Stock HHR Radio
07-17-2011, 02:42 AM
#21
Member
Join Date: 05-05-2011
Location: Bremerton
Posts: 54
Wow I looked what I wrote in my last post again and now it makes sense. I The RCA cables go to the amps. Im gonna need some long RCA cables to go all the way to the back and it looks like im gonna have to buy an aftermarket amp because I see no way how this rca cable will hook up to the factory amp, much less anything else that needs to hook up to an amp, like the voltage ???
The PAC-Audio adapter will pass the chime to the amp. It has low-level outputs with RCA connectors for all 4 channels. It has a remote connection. There is no way, without significant wiring mods, to use the stock amp with any form of aftermarket components. I'm just geek enough I would do such a thing, but to the best of my research aftermarket components are the best way to go for power. Stock amp is 260w total to 7 channels. Assuming 60w to the sub (which is the best estimate I've uncovered) you've got barely 50w a piece for the remainder. And honestly I don't think it's even stacked like that.
I've got my stock sub hooked to the PA-330 and have the stock enclosure stuffed with poly-fiber and its very acceptable. I think I've been getting about 120w through the sub. Of course there's room for improvement. The Kicker CVT8 for example. :)
If you decide on a general Line Output Converter, those wire straight into the speaker connections and down-convert the speaker level signals to pre-amp levels. Use of a ground loop isolation device is advised with those. Helpful tip for the RCA lines, find twisted pair RCA cables. Helps reduce noise.
After looking at all the information I've found out about this system.. it's possible to get the stereo amplified aftermarket without amping the chime.. but it'll be a few days works and involve a few other components. My only concern is RAP availability. I might HAVE to hack something for that.
07-17-2011, 06:42 PM
#22
New Member
Join Date: 05-22-2011
Location: Dearborn, Michigan
Posts: 28
Good info. Thanks. This will be my first time installing an amp. I just researched this amp I bought a little more and its not as good as I originally thought, but it will do. I found this link that has some good info on what to look for when buying an amp. http://www.ptcruiserlinks.com/forum/...fier-bass.html
I used it to make my decision, however I was a little deceived when the seller said this amp i bought had S/N 100, but later found out that that was @ 10 ohm. Its actually has s/n of 83 which is average instead of perfect like I thought it was. I'll deal with it, I am not really picky basically because of my spending ability. Im going to use the Pac converter to just power the sub so I shouldnt have to worry about the chimes, correct?
I used it to make my decision, however I was a little deceived when the seller said this amp i bought had S/N 100, but later found out that that was @ 10 ohm. Its actually has s/n of 83 which is average instead of perfect like I thought it was. I'll deal with it, I am not really picky basically because of my spending ability. Im going to use the Pac converter to just power the sub so I shouldnt have to worry about the chimes, correct?
07-18-2011, 05:32 PM
#23
New Member
Join Date: 05-22-2011
Location: Dearborn, Michigan
Posts: 28
Just an update on my amp situation. I canceled my purchase of that kenwood and instead bought a Soundstream picasso PCX2.540. Which is 540 rms watts and CEA certified. I just hope i made the right decision because I never heard of soundstream however I have heard of kenwood.
07-18-2011, 10:27 PM
#24
Member
Join Date: 05-05-2011
Location: Bremerton
Posts: 54
Good info. Thanks. This will be my first time installing an amp. I just researched this amp I bought a little more and its not as good as I originally thought, but it will do. I found this link that has some good info on what to look for when buying an amp. http://www.ptcruiserlinks.com/forum/...fier-bass.html
I used it to make my decision, however I was a little deceived when the seller said this amp i bought had S/N 100, but later found out that that was @ 10 ohm. Its actually has s/n of 83 which is average instead of perfect like I thought it was. I'll deal with it, I am not really picky basically because of my spending ability. Im going to use the Pac converter to just power the sub so I shouldnt have to worry about the chimes, correct?
I used it to make my decision, however I was a little deceived when the seller said this amp i bought had S/N 100, but later found out that that was @ 10 ohm. Its actually has s/n of 83 which is average instead of perfect like I thought it was. I'll deal with it, I am not really picky basically because of my spending ability. Im going to use the Pac converter to just power the sub so I shouldnt have to worry about the chimes, correct?
I'm going to end up likely doing something retarded complicated just because I can to get the desired results. Namely, retain chime with car switched off, it will be amplified but hey, wth. Means I'm going to have to verify RAP operation, if it is controlled by the GMLAN or local accessory, and possibly add another adapter with a wire tap. Run another adapter with a chime output and parallel that with the PAC adapter to the amps for sub and doors which should turn off with the stereo. Chime adapter (I'll dig up the part number/info later) will operate regardless of RAP just as the chime does.
Lookin to be lotsa fun just because I can. >:)
07-21-2011, 05:17 PM
#25
New Member
Join Date: 05-22-2011
Location: Dearborn, Michigan
Posts: 28
I got my amp today. This thing is huge. I was expecting something small enough to fit where the factory amp was installed. Now I have to rethink things. I am not sure where I can put this thing. I didn't even pay attention to the dims when I was shopping for amps.
07-22-2011, 01:15 PM
#26
Member
Join Date: 05-05-2011
Location: Bremerton
Posts: 54
Egad! That's a monster of an amp! My best bet for ya would be to put it under the passenger seat. Zip ties can be your best friend. :) its easy enough to run the wiring without pullin apart the backend for power. I'll post some pics later how I did mine up. No amp up there yet tho :/
07-24-2011, 10:45 PM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: 09-20-2008
Location: Iowa
Posts: 210
Learned today that the factory sub is bolted in.... 
:stuffhittingfa n:
Also that the stock amp sounds like garbage on any sub you hook up to it, even hooked up a 12 in its own enclosure to it, still sounded like crap... ggarrbbaagggeeee.. sounds soooo distorted even with bass at 0... -1 Pioneer... make that -6 for Pioneer... Peice..of....... /Rant
:stuffhittingfa n: Also that the stock amp sounds like garbage on any sub you hook up to it, even hooked up a 12 in its own enclosure to it, still sounded like crap... ggarrbbaagggeeee.. sounds soooo distorted even with bass at 0... -1 Pioneer... make that -6 for Pioneer... Peice..of....... /Rant
07-25-2011, 12:21 AM
#28
Member
Join Date: 05-05-2011
Location: Bremerton
Posts: 54
Learned today that the factory sub is bolted in.... :stuffhittingfa n: Also that the stock amp sounds like garbage on any sub you hook up to it, even hooked up a 12 in its own enclosure to it, still sounded like crap... ggarrbbaagggeeee.. sounds soooo distorted even with bass at 0... -1 Pioneer... make that -6 for Pioneer... Peice..of....... /Rant
:stuffhittingfa n: Also that the stock amp sounds like garbage on any sub you hook up to it, even hooked up a 12 in its own enclosure to it, still sounded like crap... ggarrbbaagggeeee.. sounds soooo distorted even with bass at 0... -1 Pioneer... make that -6 for Pioneer... Peice..of....... /RantAnd yeah.. the screws on the front and the bolt on the back lol
07-25-2011, 06:16 PM
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: 09-20-2008
Location: Iowa
Posts: 210
LOL thats why we're replacing the amp :p I have to say, I'm satisfied for now with the effect of the Polk Audio PA-330 hooked to the stock sub, wired with the voice coils series bridged mono. Put a firmish amount of poly stuffing stuff in the stock box helps ALOT. Dunno how much is the sweet spot but whatever I got in there is pretty good. Gonna try to put more in later.
And yeah.. the screws on the front and the bolt on the back lol
And yeah.. the screws on the front and the bolt on the back lol
07-25-2011, 09:24 PM
#30
Member
Join Date: 05-05-2011
Location: Bremerton
Posts: 54
Well I unhooked the front screws and then.. tugged a lil bit noticed it was kind of tarred in there.. so was like okayy... then seperated all that and it wouldnt budge so got angry with the hammer and then a thought came to my head that theres a screw in the back, and i be damned there was.... sttuuppiiddd...