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Cutting the back of the radio area to increase depth

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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 03:12 AM
  #11  
07azhhr's Avatar
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Originally Posted by prod
So what are you guys doing with the air duct, just let it hang loose?
Don't cut them off just trim around the sides and or bottom of the screw recesses. I don't know about A&P but Chozen left them in like I will be doing.
Old Oct 5, 2012 | 04:41 AM
  #12  
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Here is mine for now. When I get my double din I might take more of the back up but I will stop just short of the screws for the air duct.



Gotta love the smell of warm voice coils in the morning! It has been far to long.
Old Oct 5, 2012 | 06:37 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by prod
So what are you guys doing with the air duct, just let it hang loose?
My cuts did not effect any ducting.

I just had to clear out enough for the wiring to plug in without smashing it to get the head unit all the way back in. Left the ares that ducting had connect points, so thats all retained.

Air or a electric body saw is the Easiest way to cut way back in the opening, as mentioned a dremel is not the best choice for this, you can't get at it very well and keep the cuts neat. Both units are small in size like a dremel but the blade is straight out the end.



Dremel would be ok if you had to cut out the Sides but not the very Back.
Old Oct 5, 2012 | 06:53 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Chozen317
Here is mine for now. When I get my double din I might take more of the back up but I will stop just short of the screws for the air duct.



Gotta love the smell of warm voice coils in the morning! It has been far to long.
My cuts were alot neater, If I removed my head unit most would not even know mine was cut.
I basically had to make 2 larger rectangles to allow my wiring room. As a former body & fender man I learned to take out as little as possible and do it as neat as possible.

I cut out just enough and no more. Helps retain the dash integrity structually.

Just the way I like to do things, but whatever works, works.
Old Oct 8, 2012 | 04:34 PM
  #15  
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Well the stereo isinstalled . I did not need to cut afterall. This is thanks to the included spacer and the use of short barrel RCA's. My 90* ones are still in the mail and since these fit I went with them. The spacer is actually needed with this HU as the volumn knob prevents the face from coming all the way down without the spacer. Without the space the HU sits half an inch into the dash kit which is why the volumn knob hits.

For the depth the spacer is needed or atleast helps since I did not have to cut. The heat sink on this unit hits the back wall before it can clip into the sleeve without the spacer so I would have had to cut the entire back out to fit the HU. Spacer gave the HU about 1/4 to spare which inturn gave me enough extra room for the rca's.


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You can't tell from this pic but this is with the sacer and is not touching. Notice the heatsink on the back of the radio. That was touching without the spacer.

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Here is where I mounted the chime box from the axxess/metra wire kit. The rca's had not been ran but had been test fitted at this point. The box has about 3/8" clearance above it from the radio kit's pocket.

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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 02:27 AM
  #16  
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I cut mine out with some pliers.

its never going to be seen, so looks wise, it doesn't matter.

just make sure you don't hit any wires in the process.

I want to put a fan back there to aid in air flow for my double din's fan.

I know that to the left is a bunch of space and you can reach up from behind

The best part about doing this is all the room you gain for whatever (I put the $90 scoche box that keeps the door chime and stuff, although I unplugged the speaker in the box because I hate the door chime, I was scared that factory stuff wouldn't work after I read somewhere that you won't pass some inspection if it's not working, or that something might not work, such as airbags and what not, and im pretty sure that would trip some sort of warning on the dash, and that's not safe to have the warning on all the time, since it would stop you from receiving actual warnings if something should fail)
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