2010 LT 2.2 Suspension+ Replacement: Strut/Shock/Link/Speed Sensor Hub/Rotor
The Monroe quick struts made noise because of a design fault in the original issue, that was corrected. The only way to tell which model you get is by a "**" or "##" after the part number on the box. I suspect that the supplies in Hawai'i are old stock.
My experience with "suspension inspection" is dismal. They usually ignore the LCA bushings and never check bolts and nuts.
If a shop replaced your LCAs it is doubtful that they torqued the bolts properly. I have never seen a torque wrench in a shop, except for the "show" they put on in some tire shops. And then they check that the nuts are "at least" tightened to spec. Air impacts guns and torque sticks are not reliable.
My experience with "suspension inspection" is dismal. They usually ignore the LCA bushings and never check bolts and nuts.
If a shop replaced your LCAs it is doubtful that they torqued the bolts properly. I have never seen a torque wrench in a shop, except for the "show" they put on in some tire shops. And then they check that the nuts are "at least" tightened to spec. Air impacts guns and torque sticks are not reliable.
Thanks for all the input. The fact that I had those nasty Monroe Matics, I'm glad I am replacing them, even if only after 16 months. I guess the company has fallen far from their American standard for quality.
The Monroe brand is now owned by DRiV (another name for Tenneco) which also owns all of the other name brand car parts that you think have a good name like Moog, Thrush and Walker. Maybe an American corporation, not exactly a "American" manufacturer. Same junk that everybody else supplies.
Remember the 80's and 90's?
DRiV: Elevating The Ride Experience | DRiV Incorporated
Tenneco - Wikipedia
Remember the 80's and 90's?
DRiV: Elevating The Ride Experience | DRiV Incorporated
Tenneco - Wikipedia
The last time I bought struts for and HHR LS, KYB had only bare struts and no “loaded” option. Good to see they now do in the “Strut-Plus.”
When it’s in good shape I would rather keep the OEM spring, though.
If I want to keep the spring and replace the strut and EVERYTHING else, what do I need besides the strut?
When it’s in good shape I would rather keep the OEM spring, though.
If I want to keep the spring and replace the strut and EVERYTHING else, what do I need besides the strut?
Yes, but when you buy a loaded assembly you get one that “fits,” a variety of applications, so it is surely different that original. How can it not be? With a spring, the variables are many, falling under the categories of geometry (which determines its dynamic characteristics,) material, and finish.
In their vid, trusted and respected KYB talks about how they work with their spring supplier (so they're not making them.) They talk about testing to be sure their springs perform as well or better than OEM. This is a fantastic claim, that a “one-size-fits-many” can be as good or better than springs designed for and test on individual applications by the OEM.
While trying to not make an overly broad statement, aftermarket springs are notorious for being less durable then OEM springs, and for sometimes producing markedly different, sometimes markedly inferior, operating characteristics.
I’m not saying I wouldn’t buy the product. But I do think that if feasible, in many applications it makes sense to consider preserving the original springs (if they’re in good condition) even if it costs a bit more to do so.
On the other hand, HHR OEM rear spring are an example of where you might welcome an opportunity to change them, given their apparent propensity to break.
In their vid, trusted and respected KYB talks about how they work with their spring supplier (so they're not making them.) They talk about testing to be sure their springs perform as well or better than OEM. This is a fantastic claim, that a “one-size-fits-many” can be as good or better than springs designed for and test on individual applications by the OEM.
While trying to not make an overly broad statement, aftermarket springs are notorious for being less durable then OEM springs, and for sometimes producing markedly different, sometimes markedly inferior, operating characteristics.
I’m not saying I wouldn’t buy the product. But I do think that if feasible, in many applications it makes sense to consider preserving the original springs (if they’re in good condition) even if it costs a bit more to do so.
On the other hand, HHR OEM rear spring are an example of where you might welcome an opportunity to change them, given their apparent propensity to break.


