I used the genuine GM bushings.
The really strange thing was the end links were clearly broken and the lca bushings were completely split.So when the clunk didn't go away I was kind of surprised.I also figured out a way to remove the sway bar bushings without dropping the cradle or removing the rear bolt/nut from the drivers side.I simply loosened the nut until it hit the underside of the car.Lifted the bracket as high as I could.Made one relief cut in the old bushing with a sawzall, screwed a 4 inch deck screw into the meat of the bushing and then I was able to grab the old bushing by the screw with a pair of channel locks..Sliding the new one back in was a lot easier then removing the old one.

 

Good tip!

 

i went and bought sway bar bushings - hope i got the right ones based on the above comments. I wanted to mention that after i changed my struts (rock auto) and stabilizer links (got some generic cheap brand off amz) the clunk went away... for a while, then i started hearing new, different clunks - i had noticed that ball joint bushings were also pretty gone so i was assuming i would have to just go ahead and rebuilt the whole front end.... then i decided to check the nuts on the links... i had found two sources for torque setting - one said 15lbs, another 20lbs... i didn't have my torque wrench handy that goes that low so i did it by 'feel'... turns out the CLUNK had returned because the upper nut on one side had loosened up. So i hand tightened it down harder... a few days later, the other side was loose - only the upper nut again. This time i prob put 30-40lbs and it's been quiet since.
QUESTION, does anyone have the proper specs for the torque set on the stabulizer nuts?

 

59 Ft/lbs

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...e-items-54648/

 

thank you! that is a BIG difference from what i had found. now if i could just remember where i put that torque wrench....

 

Don’t forget to put some antiseize on the threads, to help next end link change, you’ll be thankful you did!