I've got the wobbly steering when breaking, and rattling when going over bump problem. After doing lots of research it is clear that the problem is the Lower Control Arm Bushing. Everyone seems to replace the whole Lower control arm. Is it hard to replace only the Bushing? I can't find anyone in the internet having problems with the lower Ball Joints. How can I check them? It seems like a much better investment to buy a bushing and a ball joint pres, to use on the bushing. We are talking $75 for the bushings and the press verses $250 for two control arms. I normally don't like to cheap out on parts but this thing needs lots of other maintenance also and money is a bit tight right now. Thanks.

 

Typically the lower control arm bushings don't generate a rattle going over bumps - they can CLANG etc. - rattles going over bumps are more often the sway bar end links, or the sway bar bushings.

Yes the bushing can be replaced - as detailed for the MOOG PROBLEM SOLVER Bushing - in the posting at https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/brak...rol-arm-60599/

I don't know what you have been looking at but lower ball joints have been known to wear out. Do a search via google on how to test the ball joints.

Re: ball joint press - they are used on ball joints, not the bushings, so I have no idea what you are talking about with that.

 

I changed Lower Control Arm Bushing three times on both Control Arms.
The bushings are inexpensive, the work is simple.
I recommend changing in pairs, even if one side is dead and the other is still alive. Thus, uniform wear and half as many approaches to the car.

whopper X2

 

The ball joint press method is best to press in the new bushing,

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/brak...acement-58018/

to remove over the old bushing , I use a chisel and cave in the outer metal ring

Some use a hack saw to cut the old metal piece , be very careful not to cut into the aluminum arm .

 

Shop around. You can find 2 aluminum control arms for a lot less than $250.
My opinion. Why put new bushings in a control arm with old worn ball joints. Besides, the labor will be a lot easier if you just have to R & R the complete arm.

 

From RockAuto, again don’t order the cheap stamped steel arms.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...trol+arm,10401


and then this pair In Ebay

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F323828611236

 

Ahhh thanks Oldblue for the bit about the ball joint press usage. the ones up here aren't cheap - they seem to be over $100 from what I saw.

 

I scored mine at HF a return kit, at 75.00 USD . Not a bad deal .
I sold my 20 ton shop press for $100.00 CAD , but that was way to big for my shop. No room for things like Sweetie’s Terrain, and you know that isn’t an option.

 

logical, but you can get into trouble ...
I did it once. I was looking for a rear Control Arm Bushings. And suddenly I see two Control Arms in the kit for $ 110, shipping from the USA to Russia is free.
Cool deal! Two bushings cost about $ 20 + shipping $ 40, and that = $ 60. I will add another 50 and get the American alloy Control Arms assembled with all the Bushings and balls.
But my cargo arrived not from the USA, but from Taiwan. And after the installation in the suspension, the Bushings lived no more than a year. I still had to re-acquire the rear bushings, and the little bushings too. Ball joints are still alive, but I'm alive in constant fear.
In our area there is a saying: "avaricious pays twice."
Since then, I am biased against Taiwanese parts. And no matter how much the "great parts" is said to me, I do not believe and do not want to check.



Now I tried to find this seller to warn you against purchases.
But it looks like he got broke or fled.