voigtsga

I've got an '07 HHR LS with 60,500 miles that I just got less than 2 weeks ago. I am running into noticeable pulsing, although nothing bad enough to shake the wheel. Having done my homework, I pulled out the dial indicator and micrometer. I checked the bearings front and back and none of them have any excess play. I could hardly get them to move .001" for that matter.

The front left rotor has a runout of about .004", while the thickness taken at 3 different points is .997" consistently. This leads me to believe that this rotor is warped slightly for some reason. I realize that some threads I have read here claim this is impossible, but my micrometer says otherwise. I don't see any thickness differences in the rotor.

The front right rotor has a runout of only .001", and the thickness is at 1.004" taken again at 3 points.

Now my question is whether I should have the left rotor only turned, both rotors turned, or just replace both rotors outright. From what I see comparing what the NAPA website says to the service manual, assuming this car uses the JL9 rotor, the min allowable thickness after turning is .906".

Given all of this detailed info, which way would be better? A local Oreilly Auto Parts store only charges like $10 per rotor to turn them off of the car (if my memory serves me right). I would go ahead and put new pads on either way I go as they are over 1/2 worn. So should I just turn one or both, or cough up the $60ea for new rotors?

sleeper

Whatever ya do, do both... Never just one.. Just my .02

Lucky

I agree turn both or replace both

solman98

Using your numbers, as long as they don't take more than 0.098 away you are still within tolerance. After that, how long will it take for you to get below tolerance with normal driving? If you are doing the work, it's your time you are working with.

Gas Man

Most shops that turn them will check specs themselves as well. If they are borderline they'll tell you.

Try the local parts store over the "big box" stores.

voigtsga

Monday I'm going to check with the local Oreilly's as I know I've asked before and they turn rotors fairly cheap. If they want anywhere near $20 ea, then I'll probably just buy new ones. Makes sense that it is probably better to turn both sides so that the brakes don't pull to one side.

sleeper

Absolutely, & you said you're adding fresh pads.. So really gotta "turn" 'em both, or replace 'em both. To do it proper.

Your end-play on all wheels sounds almost like-new... That's a Big plus that you checked them..

The run-out on the rotors will clean up if that's the way you go..

If you replace everything, I hear nothing but good about Napa rotors & pads. (& I don't work there)..

voigtsga

With all of the issues I seem to have read about bearings failing early, I'm surprised to find all of the hub bearings so tight. I sure don't want to be at the mercy of a stealership. If the bearings were bad, I wanted to go into the stealership armed with that knowledge so that they can't snowball me and not replace them under the Powertrain warranty. Otherwise, I know they are almost certainly going to take the easy way out and just turn the rotors and charge me way too much for it. In troubleshooting the pulsing issue, I wanted to make sure to eliminate or confirm the bearings as being an issue because if the bearings have too much play, there is no point in trying to fix the rotors as the issue will just come right back in short order. Given that all it takes is maybe an hour and a $30 dial gauge, for me there is no reason not to check the bearings myself. And I've never even done this before. I learned how to do so just by doing some reading and research.

I too hear nothing but good things about the NAPA Ultra Premium rotors. I like the fact that they are made in the USA, and not China as most of them are. Its also hard to beat a lifetime warranty. I think a number of the rotors that I see with the cross-drilled and slotted stuff are really overpriced.

sleeper

voigtsga-

I think that's the best thing any of us can do, is do the research on any un-knowns...And know just what to watch for..

Agreed checking end-play & run-out is easy, but seems often overlooked by many...

I can see how easy a stealership could BS someone that has no clue..
Best to try & be as informed as possible...

sking1973

I just replaced both rotors and pads on my '07. Cost me about 100 bucks and an hour of my time. My rotors had been turned once while still under warranty. The dealership wanted $120 (which I thought was a bit excessive) to just turn the rotors last time I had it in the shop.