just had front hub replaced . do to traction light being on .so the code said . got a call said that the rear needed replace also. whats up with that anyone have this trouble . also need info on the struts banging so loud going over bumps . any fix to this new member here . thanks for any help. 2009 lt2

 

Ahhh, "whats up with that?" - things do wear out you know. Hubs don't last forever, and neither do struts/shocks.

What mileage is on the car?

However, banging going over bumps may not be struts - it can be the sway bar links or bushings, lower control arm bushings - so do not assume it is the struts until the whole front suspension is checked out.

 

93000

 

struts go bad after 50,000 if there oem ...if so replace with kyb .... hubs mostly drivers go first and as far for rears mine got 186000 never been replace factory...

 

that was what i was thinking shouldnt wear out that quick . looks like things isnt made worth a crap any
more.

 

They don't make wheel bearings like they used to. You can not take them apart and grease them anymore and you haven't been able to for a very long time. All you can do is replace them. Fortunately they are not terribly expensive and the average shade tree mechanic can do the job with simple hand tools.

You don't have to have the new bearings pressed into the hub come complete and just bolt on.

I've replaced the front ones on my HHR but the car does have a tad over 190,000 miles on it. Its at an age where lots of stuff will go bad just because of its age.

One thing to mention is you have to break the nut on the end of the axle loose before you remove the brake caliper or you will not be able to, even with an impact wrench. When I figured this out I had to reassemble the brake on the passenger side so I could get the nut off. I still had the brakes on the drivers side together at the time so we broke that one loose while we were at it and that saved me a bit of time

Here is a video of the job being done.


This dude did not have to have the brake on his car so maybe it was just me.

You also need to have someone who can hold the brake peddle down while you do this small thing. When I did mine I had both the front wheels off the ground and the vehicle was supported with jack stands.

For me the rear axle nuts come off a lot easier.

Also my torque wrench does not read quit high enough it only goes to 150 foot pounds so I tighted it up until the wrench clicked at 150 and then use my 2' breaker bar to turn them a tad more.

This seems to work out alright. Do not use an impact wrench to tighten your axle nuts, its just a really bad idea unless you really like replacing CV joints and the part on the rear axle where the hub bolts on.

 

He took the axle nuts off while the tires were on the ground, like the book says. Also, easier to torque them back on that way.

Many rear hubs are bad, just nobody ever checked them. If your rear tires are wearing on the inside pretty good chance they are bad.

BTW, I did the same thing first time, and then bent my cheap screw driver that I wedged in the rotor vent.

 

Now I am back on my pc - here is a thread badassbowtie put together that details the most common sources of the clunks and bumps - https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...-thread-45157/

Hopefully that will give some good pointers.