Sorry Don but I still believe in lube whenever possible.
The sooner I can get rid of all the particles the better.
How many of us go by the oil monitor system.
The more lube you can replace the better.

 

I'm kind of in agreement bud. That replaced ball joint seemed dry as a bone and most likely why it wore our in a year of use. Thinking of taping a hole in the new one and putting in a grease fitting, but no doubt may void my lifetime warrenty. Will do to next one if it wears out prematurely.

 

The ball joints in aftermarket arms are garbage, not near the quality of OEM GM ball joints. A year or so is all they are good for. 10,000 miles in 2 instances. I have drilled them & installed grease zerks in them, they still don't last any longer.

If you want ball joints that last, buy OEM GM arms. Or, buy aftermarket arms, & replace the ball joints with quality aftermarket ball joints, like Moog. The Moogs come with grease fittings. Replace the ball joints before you even install the new arm.

I've has a Moog ball joint outlast 2 control arms. When one arm & bushings went bad, I moved the joint to the second arm. It was still tight when I sold the car 40,000 miles later.

While this doesn't apply to the aluminum arms on the HHR, be very wary of welds on aftermarket steel arms. I had a weld fail on an aftermarket arm on my Ford 3 years ago. The arm folded up under the car. Fortunately, I was pulling out of a parking lot at less than 5 mph when the weld failed. If I would have been zipping down the rode at speed when it let go, I probably wouldn't be here today.

 

I do and double it!

 

My last ones lasted 200,000 miles before the car was traded in. The OEM were replaced at 100,000.
Prime Choice ships from US to US customers, they have a warehouse straddling the border evidently.

The hub I had to send back was free shipping both ways.

 

On 2010 can I use any lower control arm? My vin indicates I have FE2 suspension. Prime Choice is asking if it is FE1 or FE3 they dont carry FE2.

 

I don't think it is possible to have an FE2 suspension on a HHR. And the VIN does not carry a designator for suspension. Wherever you got that from is incorrect.

I will add that the suspension RPO is on the label on your glovebox door, look for FE1 or FE2.

FE1 or FE3 are close to the same thing... but be sure that they are cast aluminum NOT stamped and welded steel.

 

No FE2 suspensions on the HHR's.

FE1- All LS and most 1LT models
FE3- Usually a 2LT option, but some 1LT's came with it.
FE5- Was on the SS only.

As Donbrew said above, check your RPO tag in the glovebox to see how your car is equipped.

 

Welcome to the site, the FE1 in the LS and FE3 suspension in th LT models all use the same cast aluminum arm.
I suggest you look into reusing your LCA's and install Moog ball joints and Moog problem solver rear bushing bearings! The LCA's from the Internet will last for awhile and even OEM rear bushings will fail!