do you think the cobalt springs could handle they extra 300 pounds of system i carry around?

 

Wow! I would think with an extra 300 lbs in the back, you already have a lowered HHR.

 

ha its leveled out in the rear but i want the whole car to sit lower. and i want the suspension to be a little bit firmer to help with body roll.

 

I installed the rear springs yesterday, lowered it just the right amount. Low enough to tell but not too low that the vehicle loses versatility. Still gotta get the fronts installed hope to have them on by next week :)

The ride is AWSOME, there is NO difference with the spring change.

 

Has anyone purchased Cobalt SS rear springs lately?

Apparently, you guys purchased them all. There are none in the US as of yesterday. I don't want to order them and have to wait 3-6 months for them. Anyone have a lead? GM parts direct.com had them on an order basis. Thanks for the help

Ryan

 

There are some in the Lansing,Mi. parts plant.Place your order and they will ship from there in a few days.

 

I placed an order today at my dealer with a VIN from an '09 Cobalt SS so they would get priority. Hopefully I get them soon.

Thanks for the info.

 

Something everybody seems to overlook when changing springs..while most people wouldn't notice unless they've been this route before (and those worrying about "blowing" out the stock shocks) "lowering springs" for the most part come with an increased spring rate..thats why when cross breeding springs the rates are important,just because they are shorter doesn't make them stronger..1/32 dia difference doesn't seem like much..but it does make a difference.Just look at sway bars that increase in 1/8" increments(of course the # is greater because the bar has to cover "both" sides of the front, compared to springs that only cover one corner).Back to shocks..when increasing the spring rate a corresponding increase and sometimes even greater rate is needed from the shocks.You can almost guarantee the stock shocks are on the "low" end of the "needed" rebound compression range, so how are these going to respond to the increased spring rates?They will feel soft and mushy as they will not be able to keep up with the spring ocilations( and will eventually overheat in extreme cases )thus , yes, they will wear out,even though most shock people swear shocks don't wear,but thats another story. The average driver may not feel this,but a "tuned experienced driver" will. Just ask anybody who has ever set up a vehicle for racing.The smallest amount of change can make the greatest amount of handling.So,In short(yeah right) if you go with ANy spring changes,one should also change shocks/struts to "match" the set.Granted right now there are not alot of aftermarket parts so your stuck with the factory pieces(Koni's are really stiff if you want to bring them up and most people wouldn't like them for everyday use,but damn do they handle).Hope that settles some questions around the forums..feel free to link to other threads if needed. As an added note, as with any improvements made,,its all in "how" you drive that dictates how they react,so yes,stock shocks will work for awhile,but they will go "away" sooner.

 

so you saying not to just put the SS springs on there.. to change shocks to for better performance and last longer ?!

 

yes!....saying if you want to do it totally correct..match the shocks to the springs...otherwise one will overload the other..if your shocks are too stiff then the spring is not allowed to do its job..if the shocks are too soft..then the springs will over work/overpower the shocks.Basis chassis tuning.
If you really want to understand the spring /shock relationship..do some research...you'll learn a bunch of "damn!I never knew that" ..wish I had a link for ya,but,,its there.